Removing Stock Roof Rails ?

[H3Ray]

Has anyone done this?

I never use my roof rails and they cause wind drag causing loss MPG loss. Also, I just found online (surfing the subject) that Thule makes the same rails but aerodynamic.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q5EGezz_hVE

Also, I'm doing the Rancho Lift Kit and my Garage is 7 feet max so not sure if I can enter with stock roof rails.


Comments / Thanks ?

 

[derian06]

Has anyone done this?

I never use my roof rails and they cause wind drag causing loss MPG loss. Also, I just found online (surfing the subject) that Thule makes the same rails but aerodynamic.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q5EGezz_hVE

Also, I'm doing the Rancho Lift Kit and my Garage is 7 feet max so not sure if I can enter with stock roof rails.


Comments / Thanks ?

I can't fit in the garage anymore with the roofrails, look at the side of the roof rail on the key hole there should be an sp2 or sp3 or something like that. Depending on that number you'll need a specific key, mine was 40 or 50$ from GM. I had an SP2. After that you just turn it, the top half pops of then you can pull a lever which releases the bar so that it can be moved.

 

[cgalpha08]

I am almost 90% certain the Thule ones are taller than OEM. Also, the MPG change with those roof rails (Thule or OEM) is so marginal its not worth it. If you are doing a Rancho lift, that alone will affect your MPG so much more than a couple of roof rails. Just my 2 cents.

 

[derian06]

I am almost 90% certain the Thule ones are taller than OEM. Also, the MPG change with those roof rails (Thule or OEM) is so marginal its not worth it. If you are doing a Rancho lift, that alone will affect your MPG so much more than a couple of roof rails. Just my 2 cents.

True, I went from 12mpg to 14mpg with the rancho and 37's (don't know how). But I saw no difference in mpg with the roofrails on vs off. I just took them off to paint them.

 

[Panzer07]

True, I went from 12mpg to 14mpg with the rancho and 37's (don't know how). But I saw no difference in mpg with the roofrails on vs off. I just took them off to paint them.

Hehehe I have the answer to that...you truck just finally realize how cool it was after the lift and so gain more confidence which = more MPG. Lol


Torres

 

[High Five H2]

look for a thread on here about the rack keys. i got my keys from a member here, and more people are willing to send a copy of their key.

 

[f5moab]

If your locks are labeled SP1>>>>>> http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?8982-SP1-roof-rack-keys&p=159112#post159112

 

[H3Ray]

Just wondering how many guys keep their stock roof rails?
I just looked at mine and they move back and forth easily, just pushing them, strange ....
I'm not in to the Gobi or other roof racks so debating if it's worth keeping the stock rails or .... ?
Possible light bar installed in future.
Thx.

Ps. I have the key to remove ....

 

[cgalpha08]

Just wondering ow many guys keep their stock roof rails?
I just looked at mine and they move back and forth easily, just pushing them, strange ....
I'm not in to the Gobi or other roof racks so debating if it's worth keeping the stock rails or .... ?
Possible light bar installed in future.
Thx.

Ps. I have the key to remove ....

Interesting. I long ago got rid of mine for a gobi, but if memory serves me right, I think there is a way to tighten the clamping ends so that they do not slide like that. When they are mounted they should not move except with extreme force. I don't know if you know this or not, but there are specific grooves in the channels on the roof for where the roof rack is meant to be clamped down, a set position if you will.

 

[digglesworth]

i pulled that crappy lever and pin deal out as soon as i got my ebay knock-offs. i replaced it with a carriage bolt with a washer on it. slip the carriage bolt up thru the hole from the bottom. put a washer and a nut on it loosely from the top. slide them into the rails a into position. tighten the nut down with a socket. then i threaded another nut on top of the first nut as a jam nut. much freakin tighter than the original lever deal. theres notches in the tracks that youre supposed to line up with the plunger thing (head of the carriage bolt in my case) and its supposed to keep it from sliding. i run 3 rails on my yakima basket for extra support. the notches didnt line up with where i wanted them to be so i marked the tracks and used my dremel to cut new notches in the tracks. got everything lined up and tightened down. havent had any issues since.

 

[nightstalker]

Looking for a sp2 key if someone has one!


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[H3Ray]

i pulled that crappy lever and pin deal out as soon as i got my ebay knock-offs. i replaced it with a carriage bolt with a washer on it. slip the carriage bolt up thru the hole from the bottom. put a washer and a nut on it loosely from the top. slide them into the rails a into position. tighten the nut down with a socket. then i threaded another nut on top of the first nut as a jam nut. much freakin tighter than the original lever deal. theres notches in the tracks that youre supposed to line up with the plunger thing (head of the carriage bolt in my case) and its supposed to keep it from sliding. i run 3 rails on my yakima basket for extra support. the notches didnt line up with where i wanted them to be so i marked the tracks and used my dremel to cut new notches in the tracks. got everything lined up and tightened down. havent had any issues since.

Thanks for commenting but I don't understand.

 

[digglesworth]

Hunner had a process to add a washer to tighten up the retention system.
Do you have a set of crossrails? Are you familiar with how they are attached to your roof.
I can draw some sketches as mine are on the truck and it's got snow on it now.

 

[derian06]

Looking for a sp2 key if someone has one!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have one, I can try to make a copy sometime this week.

 

[digglesworth]

Ok. Here we go. I'll try and explain it.
Once you pop the cover off the base, you'll see a lever. If you rotate the lever out towards you, it will cause the plunger to drop down a little so you can slide the base. In the center of the base is a bolt that is going intjo a hook type retention thing that grabs the underside of the roof track. Just loosen the bolt along with opening the lever and the base with slide toward the front of the vehicle. Loosen both sides and the whole rail will slide forward (a person on either side may make it easier to slide the whole rail. At the end of the roof tracks, above the front doors, are inserts about 10-12" long. Pull these out on both sides and it will expose the ends of the tracks. The bases will slide out the ends of the rails
Once out, take that center bolt/screw all the way out the seperate the base from rail. Or leave it together if you want. There is a pin on the underside of the lever that connects the plunger to the lever. Use a small allen wrench or something to push the pin out. The plunger and a spring will fall out the bottom.
I used a washer that was the same diameter as the inside

 

[digglesworth]

Width of the roof track. The plunger or now the carriage bolt is what will engage into the "notches" of the roof tracks. Put the washer on the carriage bolt and pit it up through the hole where the plunger was. Stick a washer and a nut on the top to hold it in place. Keep that center bolt/screw loose so the retention hook will slip under the roof track loosely and allow the base to slide down the track. Line up the carriage bolt with a notch and snug it up. Once you're satisfied with where the base is sitting on both sides, tighten that center bolt/screw so the hook really grabs the rail. Then snug up the carriage bolt/nut up tight. Not too tight though. The base is only plastic. I hope this makes some sense. And it will make more sense once you get them loosened up and slid off. You may be able to find some directions for the rails online.

 

[H3Ray]

Got it - Thanks for taking the time to help.