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THORparts SAS #2 project...

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
Rather than clutter-up a bunch of other threads, I'm starting a new one to post up some pics of the latest THORparts SAS-H3T. You may have seen a few shots of this already...cutting and removing the stock suspension. Now that most of that is out of the way, we're starting to get to the "meat" of the build. Today was a momentous occasion...after about three weeks of being up on jack stands fighting rust and taking a load of sparks in the face...TOUCHDOWN!..

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This is the first test of ride height...28" fender-to-hub centerline. Its was pretty tall to begin with (25.5" with the Rancho), and I think it is still a tad too tall for my tastes. But, it certainly looks like a monster, and the 37"s have plenty of room. I dare say 40"s would probably fit with no changes. There is no way this thing is going to roll out of my shop at this height, so I have some stock 33"s to bolt-on when that day comes. BTW...this truck also has a 1" Daystar body lift, which contributes to the extra height. Springs are full-size Bronco +4" and the coil buckets are adjustable.

This front suspension is pretty much a carbon copy of my SAS and Squeaky's SAS with a few minor changes. On this one I had to put a 20-degree bend in the track-bar to clear the pumpkin. This was due to the track-bar bracket I used on the axle, and I have since found another brand I like better. But this one is already welded-on and it works pretty good. Another big change is the axle itself. This one is a highly-customized high-pinion D44...a first around here. It was made by pulling the tubes out of a Ford housing and relocating the pumpkin to the passenger-side...then re-tubing it to match the standard GM D44 width. Its loaded with Yukon shafts, Eaton E-locker, and 5.13 gears. This also has the THORparts H3-to-Dana brake kit that retains the ABS, TCS, and Stabilitrak systems.

At first deciding to use a high-pinion seemed like a no-brainer. They are allegedly 15% stronger, and you get the added benefit of a shallower driveshaft angle. However, now that I got it in place under the truck, some issues become obvious immediately. First and foremost is the clearance between the yoke and the 3.7L's exhaust manifold. At this ride height, there is only about 5" between the yoke and the catalytic converter...so bump stop calculations will be critical to keep the yoke from smacking the exhaust at full compression. IMO, the low pinion GM housing is a better fit, and its certainly easier since you don't have to make it from scratch...but, this particular axle is about as bomb-proof of a D44 as you can get. It also has .500" wall axle tubes, which put its final weight up where two guys cannot lift it.

I'm going to take a break from the front, and start on the rear suspension. It's getting a spring-over and re-gear to 5.13s. Once I get it back down on the ground...I will play around with coil-bucket positions and settle on a finished ride-height.
 

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4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
Nope. He drove it to Indiana and checked-in to the THORparts "IMMEDIATE CARE CENTER" for some major surgery. I'm trying to get it driveable by the end of January, then have a couple weeks to tweak it. I have lots of minor things left to do, and they seem to take forever...brake-lines, steering, alignment, shock tuning, blah blah blah.
 

RamRod

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,914
Location
AB, Canada
When I end up eventually blowing up my front axel assembly.... I would love to be in a position to go this route!!

Wonder what will come first 4L80e or SAS??
 

07Custom

Well-Known Member
Messages
338
Location
Albuquerque, New Mexico
You're a nut CJ, how do you find time for this? I'm jealous your job or hobby is so fun haha I'm also jealous that these solid axle hummers all smoke mine! We're not an exclusive bunch anymore. I'm getting fabrication fever lol
 

zackcrum

Well-Known Member
Messages
543
Location
Corinth MS
Man that thing is looking awesome! Ramrod start collecting parts so you can be ready when that day comes! And give Cj more practice so he can start cranking them out even faster!
 

Big2dabank

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,220
Location
Central Florida
Any room on the THORparts schedule for an SAS H2. The more and more I keep pissing around with the H2 front end, the more I keep leaning to going solid.
 

IISPEEDYII

Well-Known Member
Messages
478
Location
Pennsylvania
Nope. He drove it to Indiana and checked-in to the THORparts "IMMEDIATE CARE CENTER" for some major surgery. I'm trying to get it driveable by the end of January, then have a couple weeks to tweak it. I have lots of minor things left to do, and they seem to take forever...brake-lines, steering, alignment, shock tuning, blah blah blah.

OH, thats where you are! I didn't know, I assumed California for some reason.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,506
Location
Meridian, ID
Badass! I truly know how much work goes into the SAS so props on doing it again. Its a ton of work!!!! I am running a ton of the same brackets (obviously) but the T and I are running some different brackets then you are on your personal rig, like the shock hoops. I did some trimming on the top to get the shock mount as high up as I could without going into the engine bay. This may be a non issue seeing his body sits one inch higher then mine. Track bar do you have a pic of it? I am curious because I have thought of doing it with mine.

Big2dabank. late model dodge front axle. Its a dana 60 (technically AAM axle) but all the chevy sas guys who want to keep ABS run the dodge dana 60 from late model dodges (03-04? and up) ABS plugs right in. I was planning on eventually doing a home built SAS H2 but have at it!

Either way, check out my H2 SAS thread so we dont clutter this up. Its not a legit build but I mentioned what you could do if someone did a low buck H2 SAS.
 

RamRod

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,914
Location
AB, Canada
Ramrod start collecting parts so you can be ready when that day comes! And give Cj more practice so he can start cranking them out even faster!

I am moving to the West Coast at the end of January (1,200km's or 750 miles) so once I am settled in and get the SOA done that's next on the list! :p

Thanks for the inspiration CJ!
 

zackcrum

Well-Known Member
Messages
543
Location
Corinth MS
I am moving to the West Coast at the end of January (1,200km's or 750 miles) so once I am settled in and get the SOA done that's next on the list! :p

Thanks for the inspiration CJ!
Awesome, I have my axle and steering box so far. Still a long way to go!
 

jphh20

Well-Known Member
Messages
173
Location
CT
What an awesome build[emoji1][emoji1][emoji1]. Many of us are drooling watching this rig come to life. I'm on my 2nd front diff and considering a SAS one day. Nice quality workmanship...




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

rsc

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,087
Location
Tulsa
Just wanted to send a big THANKS to CJ for helping out and sharing. I'm waiting to see when that flipped H1 front axle is gonna roll out of his garage. He has the resources and skills to figure out a lot of neat stuff many of us can't, the dude's a gearhead. Keep 'em coming!
 

kflips

Well-Known Member
Messages
776
Location
Virginia
CJ , I love the concept of these builds but am not sure of the overall vehicle height. Once you are done it would be great to know what you think the minimum height for a great SAS build could be. Given what will increasingly be limited availability of OEM and after market parts, for those of us who want to keep these trucks as long as Fidel Castro has maintained his 55 Chevy I think you may have a lot of folks interested in your designs over the next few years.
 

Highatop

Well-Known Member
Messages
600
Location
Florissant, Co.
Another one converted. Hope we get some more good pics of it workin. Nice job again...But, I still like IFS, whats a 3 to do?

Thanks again. Long live Thorparts an the know how to do it for yourself...
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
Thanks guys for all of your support over the years. I'll be posting up some more pics of progress.

Kflips...the minimum ride height is about +6" over stock. This is pretty much pre-determined by the relationship of the front frame rails vs. the axle tubes. The oil pan is slightly above the bottom of the frame rails so there is not much concern with that...but it means that putting some notches or humps in the frame, will not gain you much up travel. Also, tire clearance forces the ride height up...37"s require 6" of lift to prevent rubbing...so even if you could work-out the stuff underneath, you still get tire rub at the fenders below 6". I personally like lower ride height, and I've got my rig dialed-in to sit about as low as possible. On this build...I'm going to finish the SOA out back, before I do any height adjustments. There some extras that I'm dealing with (air bags) that might require me to do some more fiddling. Also, I'm doing a spring-swap (back to OEM leafs), and I'm not sure where that will put the rear-end when I'm done.

I saw a TV program years ago about the fleet of 1950s American cars in Cuba. Most of them have had motor swaps done back in the 70s. Weird seeing a guy pop the hood on a 58 Chevy expecting to see a 348 or 283, only to find some Russian 4-banger!
 

Hummerboy

Well-Known Member
Messages
138
Location
Nc
With the OEM leafs could you add an extra leaf to the driver side that you don't put on the passenger side? Not sure if any guys have done it but with my stock leafs my driver side rear sits about 1" lower than passenger, same thing with the Rancho leafs I have now. I guess it's due to the extra weight from the gas tank? But have any of you done anything to correct this once you do a spring over?
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
If the rear is sitting noticeably lower on one side, its probably because one of the springs is in a bind. Anytime you swap leafs, you need to leave all four spring-eye bolts loose until you get it back on the ground with the vehicle weight on it. Only then should you do the final tightening. I have had the same issue, and it was caused by torquing the spring bolts while it was up on jack stands. Its true for the front spring bolts (at the frame) and also the rears (at the shackles). Believe it or not...you can get 1-1/2" difference from this issue. This problem happens with both spring-under and spring-over arrangements but, the spring-over definitely makes the rear suspension more sensitive to minor changes in weight. Not sure why.

On the H3...If you take a close look at the sleeves inside the leaf-spring bushings...you'll see they have tiny little teeth on the ends that dig into the frame pocket when you tighten them. These teeth dig-in so well that they will actually hold the spring in a bind. The solution is to loosen all four bolts...bounce the truck real hard (or go for a short drive on a bumpy road)...then re-tighten them while the truck is sitting on the ground. I've wrenched on several other leaf-sprung rigs (Jeeps & full size trucks), and never had this issue. So I think its just another one of those weird Hummer-only tricks.

If your truck is leaning so badly that you need an extra leaf on one side, something is bent, broken, or you need to switch to low-carbs. Try the bolts first...its free and takes 10 minutes. Check your front height after you get done, because any changes in the rear can effect the front too.
 
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