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What did you do with your H3 recently? NEW

Gent

Well-Known Member
Messages
46
Location
Canada
I finally installed the 7” headlight adapters and 4” foglight adapters from ODCH3 https://www.etsy.com/ca/shop/ODCH3

I put in the Morimoto sealed7 and these fogs: https://a.co/d/0bGrfWxx

Worked great. I kinda gave up on a bunch of the options though. Both bulbs have amber lights that can be wired into the turn signals, but I thought that might be too much going on. I did activate the halos on the foglights as extra DRLs when the headlights are on.
 

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pickledill

Well-Known Member
Messages
58
Location
Nebraska
That is my remote transmission cooler. I have it located where the muffler used to be
ah neat

I was thinking of doing a E-fan conversion but a affordable E-fan only does about 2-3k CFM so I might have to run my trans cooler in place of the rear tire with its own dedicated E-fan if I can't cool my rad well?

SPAL does make a E-fan capable of around 4-5k CFM but its a whopping $1200 and takes 80A
 

cgalpha08

"Like Nothing Else"
Messages
3,713
Location
Indianapolis, IN
ah neat

I was thinking of doing a E-fan conversion but a affordable E-fan only does about 2-3k CFM so I might have to run my trans cooler in place of the rear tire with its own dedicated E-fan if I can't cool my rad well?

SPAL does make a E-fan capable of around 4-5k CFM but its a whopping $1200 and takes 80A
I think if you're just running the stock motor, stock clutch fan, the oem radiator, and something like a tru cool 40k or similar trans cooler up front is more than adequate, especially if you're not wheeling it super hard. Some people will add a pusher fan to the trans cooler up front, but at some point that extra fan will block the natural air flow.

I only went remote mount for the following reasons: the power steering cooler was directly below the oem trans cooler and that was heating it up, so I had to find another solution. I also have 40 inch tires and one ton axles now, so a lot more rotating mass/load than a stock drivetrain, thus more load. The engine only ever gets over 200, when I park it on a trail and its hot out and i shut the engine off. Driving it, especially in 4 lo with more CFM coming from the clutch fan , it stays nice and cool ( high 180s, low 190s)
 

BW_Hummer H3

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,085
Location
Texas
Huge thanks to Alrock for helping me regain access to my account and I figured I'd post an update from the past couple of months.

Over the past couple of years I hadn't been driving the H3 a ton (less than 8K miles in the past 5 years) and I had an epiphany last fall that I either need to start daily-ish driving it again or sell it and let someone else enjoy it. I couldn't bring myself to selling my high school car so that forced me to finally fix some of the issues I had that prevented me from driving it as much as I liked.

The biggest issue I had was a couple of years ago the BCM got water damage from a saggy door seal (shockingly not a sunroof issue). The H3 was still drivable, but had a ton of electrical issues (key fobs, outside temp not working, etc & even a weird one where if I was on cruise control and hit the brakes it would kill the radio power) that made me not trust it on long trips so it became reserved for weekend warrior duty. At the time GM had discontinued H3 BCMs and all aftermarket options were out of stock so I was stuck to buying used BCMs out of wrecked H3s with the same exact part number and trying to get a GM dealership to program them to my H3 with no success. The dealership would still charged a decent amount for just trying to program it so that quickly became an option I didn't want to try any longer. There was a couple of companies out there that offered to rebuild/refurbish BCMs, but you had to sent your BCM out first & I never trusted doing that incase anything happened and the BCM got lost or completely ruined and then I'd have a 6K pound paper weight. Finally found a company on Ebay (auto101) that would send me a pre-programed BCM with my VIN & mileage first & then I'd send mine back in for a core fee after. I was doubtful, but I figured I'd try and it worked! Solved all of my BCM issues and would recommend that company if anyone else is having BCM issues.

Second issue I need to fix was my headlights not working. I had gone through a couple of sets of headlights over the past 10 years - first set was a custom HID headlight set from a old forum member on here (but these constantly had issues) & 2nd set was an off the shelf LED pair with the 3D printed adapters, but I had a couple of these go out on me. I have a CBPhoto winch mount (I hope he is doing well & saw his old H3T for sale recently) and taking the brushguard and winch mount off everytime I need to swap headlights was a real PITA with how the CBPhoto winch mount sandwiches in between the D rings & brush guard. So I decided to go back to OEM Headlights (& turn signals & marker lights) as it is way easier to change bulbs instead of full headlight housings. I was able to buy new OEM headlights & turn signals off of Ebay surprisingly cheap (granted I'm probably one the few people out there that cares to spend more money of OEM H3 parts opposed to aftermarket parts).
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I didn't realize how hazy & foggy my old lights were until I took them off and compared them to the new ones.
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Pics of all the new headlights, turn signals, marker lights & fog lights. I really like the OEM look compared to the blacked out look.
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The real star of the show is in this picture (clearly the 2002 Chevy Tracker in the garage).
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I also went ahead and swapped back to the OEM wheels which I was shocked out much this improved the drive & ride quality. The OEM offset really helps.
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I also had to get a rear main seal leak fixed and crossmember diff bushing replaced, but no pictures of that.

So anyway I've been daily driving the H3 again and have put around 5K miles on it this year. I've also signed up for the Durango Hummer Club event in September which I'm super pumped for. Also planning to attend Windrock Hummer Club event in October as well.
 
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