2009 H3T Alpha Steering rack replacement advice.

[H3TMO]

Im in the process of putting in a new mando rack and outfitter design reinforement kit in my alpha. I have the rack completely free, tires off slightly lifted off the ground. I am having one heck of a time getting the old rack out. I started taking lines off the old rack just to try and get it out. After about 5 hours of trying I decided to find some help haha. Any tips to get this dang thing to slide out the passenger side?
Another question, power steering hose seals/cups. Does anyone know a direct replacement for these? I cannot find them anywhere locally.

Any tips would be great thanks!

 

[rascole]

It is a game of tetris. I found easier to remove both tie rods, inner & outer, then fish it out. If you are referring to the o-rings, they can be bought at any parts store.

 

[H3TMO]

It is a game of tetris. I found easier to remove both tie rods, inner & outer, then fish it out. If you are referring to the o-rings, they can be bought at any parts store.

I'm gonna get back to the Tetris game after work and take the tie rods off. I appreciate the response for the o rings. I have an assortment of high pressure o rings I will use then thanks a lot!

 

[4speedfunk]

First...The steering wheel must not turn when disconnected from the rack. Tie the steering wheel to the brake pedal to keep if from turning. Failure to do this will be lots of time & money to fix. Easily avoidable.

Second...the front diff is held in with three bolts. Take those out, and you can shift the entire axle around to gain clearance to get to the rack.

 

[H3TMO]

First...The steering wheel must not turn when disconnected from the rack. Tie the steering wheel to the brake pedal to keep if from turning. Failure to do this will be lots of time & money to fix. Easily avoidable.

Second...the front diff is held in with three bolts. Take those out, and you can shift the entire axle around to gain clearance to get to the rack.

Thanks for the reply! That's exactly what I did. I used a ratchet strap to the seat from to the wheel. I finally got the new one in Sunday, it had to be shoved all the way to the right then turned slightly back. I did not end up pushing the diff back but for future reference I definitely will. It's in for an alignment now, turns out I over tighten my upper control arm bolts. Yay haha

 

[Glenn]

First...The steering wheel must not turn when disconnected from the rack. Tie the steering wheel to the brake pedal to keep if from turning. Failure to do this will be lots of time & money to fix. Easily avoidable.

Second...the front diff is held in with three bolts. Take those out, and you can shift the entire axle around to gain clearance to get to the rack.

What do you mean? My stereing wheel was turned every which way but loose when i replaced the rack on mine. Put eveything back together got it all aligned dont remeber having to spend alot extra timw and money.

 

[EndeavoredH3]

What do you mean? My stereing wheel was turned every which way but loose when i replaced the rack on mine. Put eveything back together got it all aligned dont remeber having to spend alot extra timw and money.

Clock spring has a finite amount of the ribbon harness. If the wheel turns over the 2.5 turns you will tear it. Even if you turn the wheel once and reinstall the rack, you still exceed the 2.5 turns and will tear that ribbon.

Best to strap it down so you know for certain the wheel didn't rotate during the repair. Sounds like you were lucky.

 

[Ac_go4it]

Im in the process of putting in a new mando rack and outfitter design reinforement kit in my alpha. I have the rack completely free, tires off slightly lifted off the ground. I am having one heck of a time getting the old rack out. I started taking lines off the old rack just to try and get it out. After about 5 hours of trying I decided to find some help haha. Any tips to get this dang thing to slide out the passenger side?
Another question, power steering hose seals/cups. Does anyone know a direct replacement for these? I cannot find them anywhere locally.

Any tips would be great thanks!

I had someone put brake fluid in my power steering reservoir. It blew and ate all the seals in my steering system, so had to replace everything. It was about the time I had just done a cooling system upgrade (aluminum rad, electric cooling fans) and had already been through the front. Because of how extensive the replacements were, I again went through the front, taking out the radiator I had just installed. I hadn't finished replacing the bumper, grill, or other front end parts, so wasn't so bad to back track a little. It was still a pain in the ass, because some items were still hard to get a wrench on, but It wasn't too bad.

Good luck

 

[Jeepwalker]

I usually wrap masking tape around the area where the steering wheel meets the column. There's an official spot for a 'pin' underneath on the shaft to keep the wheel from turning.

You probably have the new rack by now.

Whoever put brake fluid in your P/S system ...might not want to have them work on your truck from this time forward....

 

[Jeepwalker]

Talking about steering:

I think every H3 owner should consider adding a couple drops of gear lube with a screwdriver or an oil can, to the U-joints of their rig's intermediate shaft yearly. Esp the upper joint. The U-joint can and does get 'sticky' and often makes a 'clunk' noise...in addition to getting rusty. If your rig makes a 'clunk' noise as you turn the wheel, that means your steering shaft u-joints are getting sticky and they're begging for lube! Since good original shafts are unobtanium, it makes sense to remove it lube up, and articulate the u-joint. Work a little gear lube into it. Or attempt to do it on-car.

The aftermarket steering shafts suck. Often the ends are welded out of alignment from the box, and the parts inferior. They don't last that long...couple yrs, in my experience. If your vehicle has an OEM or Delco intermediate shaft, put a couple drops of lube on the U-joints (at the rubber seals), and move steering wheel back/fourth a bunch of times to work some lube in there (front up on jackstands probably best). Better to keep the one you already have 'good'. Save you some $$ and keep better parts on your rig. You'll be glad you did.