Binding when turning

[BBYHUMR]

Looking for some input from my fellow H3 owners

Sometimes when I turn tight left at low speed, like into a parking spot, my H3 is binding up at the right front to the point it will bring me to a stop and I will have to moderately accelerate to continue moving which i'm hesitant to do for fear of braking something. Right nose will dip when binding and driving forward more so than normal, but it doesn't matter if it's forward or reverse and doesn't always do it. I can feel when it's happening and if I straighten out my steering wheel it reduces the binding but only on tight left turns, right turns are flawless with zero issues. I don't see any broken components underneath or signs of play in the suspension/drivetrain bushings or wheel hub, I'm truly at a loss on this. Yes I have confirmed it is in the normal unlocked 4 high mode, and no there are no signs of it rubbing on something underneath. Hoping a fellow member has had a similar issue or can point me in a diag direction. Been happening since I purchased the unit a few years back.

2006 i5
23" hub to fender
Axle boots are clean & undamaged (have not taken them apart to inspect)
New upper control arms & shocks
35" mud tires (binding still occurred when I had 265/70/16)
Changed front and rear diff fluid a couple weeks back, had some minor shavings but nothing abnormal on the plug.
Can shift into and out of 4hi without issue

 

[cgalpha08]

Have you checked the steering rack to see if its slipping in the clamp or mounts for it? Possible its moving and causing the wheel end geometry to be off

 

[BBYHUMR]

I replaced the clamp bushing within the past couple months (maybe 500 miles ago). I do still need to replace the other two bushings on the rack. It tracks straight when I’m driving highway or city speed with straight steering wheel, I’d think if the rack was moving like that the steering wheel would have obvious offset. I’ll take a look under it tomorrow though

 

[alrock]

I've seen similar issues with CVs binding on sharp turns though it would seem like that would have gotten worse over time. I've had this on CVs pulled from my H3 as well as Bigunit's. Any CV can bind when extended too far, which isn't necessarily the issue here, but could be worn out or poorly built.

As I say this it makes me wonder if alignment issues could have an effect, and CG's ideas are definitely good. I don't think the steering wheel would have offset - the rack is moving, not the angle of the wheels. If the rack slid back 1/2" due to worn components that could cause issues.

Also, how are the lower control arm bushings, have they ever been replaced?

 

[BBYHUMR]

Well took a look today while replacing the tensioner, idler and belt. Steering rack has super minor play (similar to a bushing flex) but I don’t think it’s enough to warrant what I’m dealing with

I've seen similar issues with CVs binding on sharp turns though it would seem like that would have gotten worse over time. I've had this on CVs pulled from my H3 as well as Bigunit's. Any CV can bind when extended too far, which isn't necessarily the issue here, but could be worn out or poorly built.

As I say this it makes me wonder if alignment issues could have an effect, and CG's ideas are definitely good. I don't think the steering wheel would have offset - the rack is moving, not the angle of the wheels. If the rack slid back 1/2" due to worn components that could cause issues.

Also, how are the lower control arm bushings, have they ever been replaced?

I was thinking CV as well however I have no clicking or anything when moving which is generally a first sign of failure.

I was needing to have an alignment done on it and I was wondering if the caster angle is off or something. I know I have some camber issues on the right front, however that wouldn’t lead to binding, just tire wear.

Lower control arm bushings have not been replaced since I’ve owned the unit. I’m not sure about previous owners though. Ball joint is in good shape and boot is solid.

Have other issues to figure out now though. On my way back to my apartment the motor decided it didn’t want to play anymore so priorities have shifted…..

 

[atvspeed4]

How did you confirm its in AWD vs 4Hi lock? Its possible the dash light shows AWD but the transfercase is actually locked still

 

[BBYHUMR]

How did you confirm its in AWD vs 4Hi lock? Its possible the dash light shows AWD but the transfercase is actually locked still

Fair question. I shifted from AWD to 4lo and listened to the case shifting. Crawled around the street for 100 or so feet to confirm it was in 4lo, then switched to 4hi, again listened to the case and moved around the street a bit more to confirm it was out of 4lo, then reversed the process going back into AWD.

 

[atvspeed4]

Thats not the same thing as locking/ unlocking the center differential. Sounds like you may have the shifter fork issue

 

[BBYHUMR]

Sounds like a reasonable thought. Once I have the motor out within the next few weeks for the swap i'll throw in a metal shift fork and report back!

 

[4speedfunk]

Probably the shifter fork. The issue is that the encoder motor will properly rotate, and the light on the dash will change modes...but, the fork doesn't actually move. Instead it stays in 4HI-Lock mode, even though the t-case light says otherwise. When the fork gets this worn, it can bounce back & forth and lock/unlock the t-case at will. That "binding" is probably because you are in 4HI-Lock.

An easy (but dangerous) test is to jack up either end of the vehicle, and see if you can move the truck under light throttle. I recommend using a large floor jack under the center of the rear axle...with it pointed fore/aft. You must be very careful doing this, as the jack will roll with the truck. Only jack up the truck so the rear tires are 2" or less off the road. Then jump inside and put it in gear...see if the front wheels will pull the truck forward. If so, you are in 4HI-Lock. If the rear tires spin, and the fronts do nothing...then you are in 4HI-Street.

 

[BBYHUMR]

I'm going to end up using the t-case out of the wrecked Alpha i purchased after the i5 blew up. I have someone looking to pick up the old i5 t-case next week with knowledge of the likely shifter fork issue