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H3 Brake rotor wear

06BlueH3

Active Member
Messages
44
Location
Missouri
What causes brake rotors to wear like this? The picture is of the back of my front rotors. There is s groove in the rotor as well. The front of the rotor surface is fine.
eb065969ee207317ddd654a402ed5056.jpg



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Ghostbuster

Well-Known Member
Messages
862
Location
United States
No clue what causes it... but I can confidently say that you need new rotors and pads, and maybe even new calipers.

You can do it yourself and save a ton of money.

Just watch some videos.




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06BlueH3

Active Member
Messages
44
Location
Missouri
No clue what causes it... but I can confidently say that you need new rotors and pads, and maybe even new calipers.

You can do it yourself and save a ton of money.

Just watch some videos.




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Thank you. I plan on changing them out myself in the next week or two.


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nelly27281

Well-Known Member
Messages
53
Location
Dublin OH
Removing front rotors are pain in butt... I tried myself with limited tools with no luck. I had to get a mechanic do it for me who charged me only $30/rotor. So if you are planning to do it, here is my two cents.
Get some break cleaners and spray it nicely front and back after removing wheel. Take the big hammer and start knocking. Trust me, small house hold hammer won't do anything. Screw in two 15 mm (not 100% sure on size) bolts carefully. Don't go too hard on it as I had messed up the threads. if that won't help bang the hammer again and again. If that won't help than as a last resort take a torch and start heating the rotor and use hammer. Eventually it will come out. These all my mechanic had to do.
So good luck with that.
 

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,667
Location
Scottsdale
I think you'll figure out the wear when you take out the pads, whatever the cause.

A BFH goes a long way towards loosening brake rotors - a deadblow hammer, not necessarily a metal hammer especially when reusing rotors. As mentioned, GM provides bolt holes in the rotor to help pry away the rotor from the hub. And finally, put some anti-seize inside the new rotor where it mates with the hub to help minimize future issues.
 

Happy Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,462
Location
Wisconsin
I see a lot of rust build up but I guess I'm missing the ??????


A wire wheel and patience will clean that up or you could try cleaning them with electrolysis.
Turn em?
New pads....
 

Happy Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,462
Location
Wisconsin
But that doesn't mean that the rotors are bad. Turn em and new pads. The OEM, if they are, rotors are much better than aftermarket.
 

rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,830
Location
Bellflower, CA
Likely a bad pad that is causing the uneven wear, looks like only the center part of the pad is making contact. Looks to even to be a warped rotor, caliper most likely is OK. Rotors can be turned for @ $30 a set or new for $50 - $100 depending on the manufacturer.
 

650Hawk

Well-Known Member
Messages
546
Location
SoCal
Something is preventing the inboard pad from contacting anything other than the center portion of the rotor. While my first thought was a bad pad or something wedged between the pad & rotor, it would seem that even that would wear and eventually allow full surface contact, and this has obviously been going on for awhile. Perhaps, in addition to a bad pad (or foreign object), the caliper is frozen (on the slider pins) and not moving to allow the inboard pad to actually do much? What does the outboard side look like?

I'd pull the wheel and the pad clips and lift the pads out to look at them; it would only take a matter of minutes.
 
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06BlueH3

Active Member
Messages
44
Location
Missouri
Something is preventing the inboard pad from contacting anything other than the center portion of the rotor. While my first thought was a bad pad or something wedged between the pad & rotor, it would seem that even that would wear and eventually allow full surface contact, and this has obviously been going on for awhile. Perhaps, in addition to a bad pad (or foreign object), the caliper is frozen (on the slider pins) and not moving to allow the inboard pad to actually do much? What does the outboard side look like?

I'd pull the wheel and the pad clips and lift the pads out to look at them; it would only take a matter of minutes.

The outboard side looks normal with even pad and rotor wear.


fcf038a77547d485f8464751ca580003.jpg



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Happy Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,462
Location
Wisconsin
Lol! My rotors set me back just shy of $200. That is not exobant but certainly not cheap.
Pads for front and rear another $125-150.
Lifetime warranty priceless!!
If there not causing you any trouble you can clean em up and use em.
 

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,667
Location
Scottsdale
I was thinking broken pads.

I've tried aftermarket pads, aftermarket rotors on the H3 as well as turning warped rotors in the 170,000 miles I have had the truck. For me, there is no substitute for AC Delco pads and rotors. I'll also never turn warped rotors again - the warp comes back.

The aftermarket pads and rotors never had the same "bite" as OEM and I never felt as safe. For as infrequently as pads/rotors should have to be replaced, I'm okay spending the extra $ on a product that makes me feel safe.

I'll be using the same thought process on my Camaro.
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
$200? Yikes! Are they gold-plated?

I run PowerSlot drilled & slotted fronts...$120 free shipping. EBC greenies $65. I replace the anti-rattle clips, about $10. Amazon, eBay, Summit, Jegs. I've used this same combo on several H3's, and it works great.

Turning rotors is a dying process, and I don't think it works very well in newer vehicles. To do it right, they really need to be surface-ground on a Blanchard mill (rather than turned on a lathe). This will give the proper finish for the pads to wear in to. New ones are so much better, and no down time. Hell...I can't even find any shops around here that still turn rotors.
 
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Happy Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,462
Location
Wisconsin
I'll defer to 4speed on this lol! I don't even know what a Blanchard is. Haha!
No not good plated. But I took em back just shy of 2 yrs. And they replaced free of charge with brand new ones. So, I'm now at $50 per rotor for the two fronts twice. That's good money well spent.
The pads are lifetime warranty at Vatozone. Had to buy the hi performance lifetime but it covers all for corners and I'm not planning on H3 leaving anytime soon.
 

chaos254

Well-Known Member
Messages
577
Location
United States
Brakemotive on eBay. You can get pads and cross drilled rotors for $125 or less. I use them on all my vehicles.

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Iggy Montoya

Member
Messages
9
Location
Neptune Beach Florida
I would replace the rotor. I have some luck in turning, but if done improperly they will warp, giving you a pulse feeling when you apply the breaks.

Removal is not difficult. Get yourself a fine thread 10mm bolt. Once you are down to the rotor removal, bolt it into the open bolt hole. A few good turns and the rotor releases. Do it a couple of times and the whole change out of pads takes less time than jacking up the Hummer and removing the tire.

Julio

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woodwardsh3

Well-Known Member
Messages
519
Location
Oakland Co. Mi.
The caliper pins are more then likely seized up. and not letting the caliper slide back an forth when the brakes applied. So when you break only the puck or pistons are pushing on the outboard side.
 
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