Expo Trailer Build - CND M101 w/ RTT

[RamRod]

So as I mentioned in the other thread today I picked up a new to me Canadian military M101, which is extremely similar to the M416 I have been told.... And very similar to my T as there were very few of them produced (last I heard it the total built was between 1200-1800). I got this unit with a bunch of mods done to it already at a fair price, but it still needs a bunch of work if it's going to up to my Overland trip planned for next fall.

The pervious owner sand blasted the whole thing, built a lid & got it all Line-x'ed inside and out, top to bottom with a two tone black on top maroon on the bottom. After that he decided to add a tailgate which required the re-location of the brake and signal lights and for a bunch of the line-x to be removed off the rear (both still need attention)

The next area that needs attention will be the hinges and the latches.... The hardware chosen by the PO belong in a wood working shop and have no business holding and pivoting this lid!

After that I will remove all of the external tie downs the PO installed. You can see the shining in the pic below

I already moved the Thule bars today and mounted the CVT tent, so technically it's functional.... But the trailer needs to sit a good 5-6" higher then it currently is to come even close to sitting level!

I hope to achieve this by putting OEM 16" wheels with matching tire size to the T... And possibly doing a SOA swap if the tires alone don't do the trick

I also plan on building a simple rear bumper for this beast to house the tail and signal lights and a hitch receiver to do some light duty work (haul bikes or something)

As I will be adding reverse lights to the rear of the trailer I will be upgrading the 4 pin trailer connect to the 7 pin (or is the round one 8?) which will also provide charging to my house battery which will be houses in the tongue box up front.

Lastly I will be building a kitchen the pulls out the back that will be a combo of these two

Then it will be re line-x'ed all black and ready for years for adventure!

I would love to get your guys thoughts and ideas!!!


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[derian06]

So as I mentioned in the other thread today I picked up a new to me Canadian military M101, which is extremely similar to the M416 I have been told.... And very similar to my T as there were very few of them produced (last I heard it the total built was between 1200-1800). I got this unit with a bunch of mods done to it already at a fair price, but it still needs a bunch of work if it's going to up to my Overland trip planned for next fall.

The pervious owner sand blasted the whole thing, built a lid & got it all Line-x'ed inside and out, top to bottom with a two tone black on top maroon on the bottom. After that he decided to add a tailgate which required the re-location of the brake and signal lights and for a bunch of the line-x to be removed off the rear (both still need attention)

The next area that needs attention will be the hinges and the latches.... The hardware chosen by the PO belong in a wood working shop and have no business holding and pivoting this lid!

After that I will remove all of the external tie downs the PO installed. You can see the shining in the pic below

I already moved the Thule bars today and mounted the CVT tent, so technically it's functional.... But the trailer needs to sit a good 5-6" higher then it currently is to come even close to sitting level!

I hope to achieve this by putting OEM 16" wheels with matching tire size to the T... And possibly doing a SOA swap if the tires alone don't do the trick

I also plan on building a simple rear bumper for this beast to house the tail and signal lights and a hitch receiver to do some light duty work (haul bikes or something)

As I will be adding reverse lights to the rear of the trailer I will be upgrading the 4 pin trailer connect to the 7 pin (or is the round one 8?) which will also provide charging to my house battery which will be houses in the tongue box up front.

Lastly I will be building a kitchen the pulls out the back that will be a combo of these two

Then it will be re line-x'ed all black and ready for years for adventure!

I would love to get your guys thoughts and ideas!!!


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Add a go-pro to it so we can see your rig on the trails!


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[RamRod]

Add a go-pro to it so we can see your rig on the trails!


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Great idea! Done!


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[SuperBuickGuy]

change the door hinges (who still does that?) to pin, trailer gate hinges.

you may wish to have a sheet metal shop (or larger HVAC shops) look at the tailgate and ask them to simply build you a new one... it really wouldn't cost much at all ~$200-250 would be about right.

 

[ffmf2101]

Looks awesone!! Would love to have one!

 

[RamRod]

change the door hinges (who still does that?) to pin, trailer gate hinges.

you may wish to have a sheet metal shop (or larger HVAC shops) look at the tailgate and ask them to simply build you a new one... it really wouldn't cost much at all ~$200-250 would be about right.

These are the hinges I was thinking about ordering this morning (three of them):

I figured I'd just build a new tailgate as long as I can get the hinges apart (these are the only proper hinge on the whole trailer)

I started welding up a few of the holes in the lid but I didn't realize how big of an area the line-x needs to be removed! Otherwise it just catches fire... At this rate I think I'll need to remove all the line-x or think of another clever way to get this water and dust tight as I count 39 more holes to fill (9 from the PO, 30 from replacing the hinges)

I also removed the tie down rings that the PO installed, 8 in all.... So that bumps the total up by 16 more holes to fill!

Looks way better with the tie downs removed and I want them gone as they will interfere with some of my future plans

V

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[RamRod]

I also put the trailer on blocks to mock up the trailer hight once the new wheels are installed and set up the tent for future reference

I love how it's turning out!

You can still open the lid with the tent set up yay!

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[ReconH3]

That is so badass and just what I want do!!! Only I have to customize it so it can run on my truck's wheels and tires.


"Ex Umbris Venimus"

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

yep, those hinges are exactly what I was thinking. Now just put an electric, 12v actuator to lift the lid for you :thumbs: that's attached to a key... dagnabit, I'm giving all my secrets away. I'm planning on a RTT/trailer build, but I'm taking apart my FSC Camper to outfit it. It will have a propane fridge, fold out sides that make into counters, water, and a propane stove and oven. I got the ideas from the Overland trailers at the Rally.... of course, I'm not spending 20,000 for a tent trailer - and I do have a press brake to bend up the sides and tables myself.... too bad you're not closer, building that tailgate would be easy.

 

[RamRod]

yep, those hinges are exactly what I was thinking. Now just put an electric, 12v actuator to lift the lid for you :thumbs: that's attached to a key... dagnabit, I'm giving all my secrets away.

.... too bad you're not closer, building that tailgate would be easy.

Ha! An actuator would be trick but I am going to keep things simple, so I'll leave that one for you!

I am thinking for the tail gate I will just cut everything off except for the bottom bar (attached to the hinge) and then rebuild it from scratch the rest of the way up.

I am going to do a SOA today I have decided, it will gain me 3.5" in height on the trailer and I am looking for about 5-6". Them once I find my OEM wheels with matching tire size to the rig that will put me in the 8" of lift range and I can then move the pintle down to the lower setting if the trailer is too high and end up 5.5" above what it's at right now and be perfect!!!



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[RamRod]

The SOA worked perfectly!
Here's a drive way shot and what the iLevel app is telling me:

Now I just need the larger tires to fill this gap!

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[4speedfunk]

I couldn't help but notice you don't have a 5-lug trailer spare? You should consider replacing the hubs with matching 6-luggers. That way you only need one spare, (the one on the truck). I opted for a standard 2" ball hitch on my rig. Its much quieter and lighter weight than the pintle. I use my trailer for different duties, behind different vehicles...so the 2" ball lets me swap it around easier (also lets friends borrow it). I will eventually get around to installing a Max-Coupler: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/miscellaneous/999625-max-coupler-offroad-trailers-sale.html

Last week I got some welded-wire panels from U-line...http://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/H-4278/Store-Fixtures/Gridwall-Panels-2-x-4 These are 1/4" rod-stock at 3" spacing in both directions...perfect for making a grid-platform on the tongue. This will allow me to put whatever I want there (coolers, tool-box, trash can, etc) and the grid is very bungy-friendly. I'm hesitant to build my trailer exclusively for camping...its so useful for all sorts of hauling...

Finally got around to adding the welded-wire mesh to the tongue. Keeping with the "one-trailer does it all" theme...the mesh platform allows me to bungy just about anything to the tongue without having something permanently attached...

 

[06 H3]

I love the trailer. I would love to build one someday. For the type of wheeling I do having a RTT on my roof would be disastrous. So besides the RTT what's inside it?

 

[RamRod]

I couldn't help but notice you don't have a 5-lug trailer spare? You should consider replacing the hubs with matching 6-luggers. That way you only need one spare, (the one on the truck).

I opted for a standard 2" ball hitch on my rig. Its much quieter and lighter weight than the pintle. I use my trailer for different duties, behind different vehicles...so the 2" ball lets me swap it around easier (also lets friends borrow it). I will eventually get around to installing a Max-Coupler: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/miscellaneous/999625-max-coupler-offroad-trailers-sale.html

Last week I got some 3"x3" welded-wire panels from U-line, and I want to add a grid to my tri-angle shaped tongue area. This will allow me to put whatever I want there, and the grid is very bungy-friendly.

I just got off the phone with a local trailer parts shop & ordered up the parts I need to covert this trailer over to electric brakes with a 6x5.5 bolt pattern.
I guess I have lucked out as I can use almost any 10" drum on this unit (apparently it's a different story for the M416's?). I'll be picking that up this week but won't be installing them until I have my wheel and tire situation figured out
I do have a spare jeep rim and tire so I am not in a huge hurry, but in the same breath I want to get matching sized tires on so it doesn't look like this trailer skipped leg day!

I have been looking at both the lock and roll and the max coupler.... Wasn't sure which one I'd go with yet but I still have time for that decision! (Anything will be an improvement over the pintle!)

Got any pic's of how you did your current hitch setup?



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[RamRod]

Quick update:
Before taking the trailer out on its inaugural run I quickly wired up some marker lights for the side and switched the wiring from a 4 pin connector to a 7 pin connector cleaned up the wiring and then took a spare battery I had and wired it up temporarily as well.

When it came time to wire up the new plug I found this diagram very helpful so I figured I'd share it

So far the trailer has been towed approximately 600km's on pavement, 280km's on forestry roads and about 20km's off-road. It's handled well, but one thing is for certain.

I NEED to get rid of the pintle hitch setup or the banging and constant, but slight, wobbling will drive me insane on any long trips! Let alone one trail I plan to take it down that cross crosses a river bed 20 times each way with thousands of pintle hitch rattling boulders along the path.... Nope not going to happen! So I believe I will be placing an order for a Max Coupler soon.

This trip was a great shake down weekend to get familiar with how we would like to finish our setup:
1- there is plenty of room under the trailer for a water tank, with a skid of course

2-am a little disappointed in the fact that I discovered that an awning won't work with my current RTT setup as the tensioning rod that holds up the rain fly is in the way and the fly is much too slack without being setup.. Plus I like being able to open up that panel and allow a cross breeze to flow through the tent

3- As mentioned the pintle hitch HAS to go

4-running matching tires and rims will gain me so much extra space with the spare removed from the tub

5- proper latches and straps with be a welcomed addition to the lid and tail gate (already had plans for that)

6- better weather stripping is needed to keep the fine dust

With that said, here are some pics!

Camped on this little peninsula:

This was our view out the RTT

 

[RamRod]

I love the trailer. I would love to build one someday. For the type of wheeling I do having a RTT on my roof would be disastrous. So besides the RTT what's inside it?

That's along the lines of what I was thinking, that plus the fact you have to break down camp every time you want to leave with the truck.

Right now the inside just contains the spare tire (hope not for long) and the tongue contains a battery. It is going to get water storage under the tub up front (with a skid), a fridge freezer (went through enough ice and tossed out enough soupy food this summer to justify one) and then I am going to build a slide out kitchen as well. Leaving the truck box open for extra storage and the front driver side quarter of the trailer tub will be free for random things as well.

I am hoping to make it down to Moab this spring and have it mostly prepared by then..... But we'll see how this winter goes as I lost my garage space now that I moved to a new city!

 

[Bigunit]

Might want to extend the tongue. Helps a lot on steep incline breakovers and decsents and tight, off camber switchback trails.

Here's a pic of the extended tongue on my M416 to give you an example. Adds a lot of stability, expands the tongue storage space and you can make any U-turn/switchback turn you come across.

 

[RamRod]

Might want to extend the tongue. Helps a lot on steep incline breakovers and decsents and tight, off camber switchback trails.

Here's a pic of the extended tongue on my M416 to give you an example. Adds a lot of stability, expands the tongue storage space and you can make any U-turn/switchback turn you come across.

I was thinking the same, right now I can't swing my spare tire out of the way to open the tailgate, and that alone is enough to drive me nuts, then add on all of the reasons you listed above and it's a no brainer!

I was thinking I might take off the current pintle setup and then use it as a template and weld up a hitch receiver with a wedge on either side with holes drilled match the current pintle setup so that will bolt in place without doing any extra welding on the frame.
This is the closest Photo I can find that kind of shows what I am talking about, except I will remove the cast iron piece entirely rather then keep it like this guy did, and it would not rotate or spin at that joint either

.... So basically not like this photo at all, however I will extend the tongue with the same receiver tubing and about the same length.

With that said I might also chop down my spare tire swing out so the arm is not as long and at the same time improve how it is latched/secured down in driving mode.

 

[RamRod]

I picked up a small solar panel and controller to keep the battery topped up as best as possible, installing it as I type... Well not exactly, but when your working in the snow a guy has to come in and warm up!

I also found a couple of really good panels to use for building up the kitchen...it's cheap partial board covered in some kind of vinyl, so it will be easy to clean and won't require any paint Never would have thought of it but in the "As is" section at IKEA there can be some great scraps if you dig around enough and know what size of panel you need. You can see one on the side of the trailer (it still needs some legs to help support it) and the other on the ground that will be the top of the kitchen pull out.

 

[RamRod]

As mentioned earlier in this thread that I wanted to build a counter for on top of the fender to give us more food prep and cooking area than just the tailgate.... What a pain in the arse that was!

I wanted a solid way of mounting that table,but also wanted something so simple that the GF could do it herself if she needed to.

I ended up using item "J" in the image below. These trick piece of hardware were ordered from Lee Valley Tools:

How they fit together:

It is slightly tapered and the further they slide in to each other the tighter they get

Then all I had to do was measure and mount each side so it all lines up

And there you go, it can't twist or lift up and it's K9 approved

 

[RamRod]

This is the closest Photo I can find that kind of shows what I am talking about, except I will remove the cast iron piece entirely rather then keep it like this guy did, and it would not rotate or spin at that joint either

.... So basically not like this photo at all, however I will extend the tongue with the same receiver tubing and about the same length.

With that said I might also chop down my spare tire swing out so the arm is not as long and at the same time improve how it is latched/secured down in driving mode.

This is what I was looking for but with a receiver tube in the end not the pintle hitch

Was this before, almost the same as my current setup

 

[RamRod]

I was stumbling around on MacMaster Carr looking for some hinges and new latches to use on the lid (I have taken off the POS latches the P/O installed that didn't line up nor keep the lid closed, and can't wait to replace the closet door hinges he installed 5 of because they kept failing... wonder why!?!)

When trying to figure out the shipping charges I some how got a message "Thank you for your order" so I guess I have some latches and hinges on the way!

The latches I believe I ordered look like the ones that come on the AT chaser and are rated to 300lbs each. the hinges are much more substantial, a 3/8'' pivot shaft compared to 1/8'' and I will be putting one on each end and one in the middle.

I think I will secure it all down with some riv-nuts to try and keep it looking nice and clean... might spot weld them in if they need the extra strength.

More to come

 

[4speedfunk]

McMaster doesn't tell u shipping charges. They just add it to your card after the purchase. Never been dis-satisfied though.

Hope u got stainless.

 

[Woodtick]

McMaster is a customer of ours,chiller work. Great company to do work for. There catalog is full of quality stuff. I have no problem paying for Quality. Can't comment on shipping, I usually pick it up will call. Trailer looks great and looks like it would be very functional. The perfect size setup.

 

[RamRod]

So just got an email from them, I guess they don't ship to individuals in Canada for some reason... Only businesses.... So the order is cancled and I am going to have to source that hardware some place else.