I think your best bet is to get your H3 sitting at the height you want...then measure the shock length you need, and buy universal shocks from Fox. This is how I do it for SAS and SOA mods. There is simply too much variance from rig-to-rig to find some that are "made to fit". A stock H3 uses bar-pins on the top of the rears, and studs on the top of the front. However, most universal shocks have bushings & thru-bolt mounting on both ends, so you will need to convert your H3 for this type of mounting or find some application that uses the stock layout. That may be hard to find, since most serious shocks have pretty much standardized on the eye-to-eye type of mounting.
You can use bar-pin eliminators on the rear but, I have done this many times and frankly...I won't fart around with it anymore. Find a shock with bar-pins and run them the way you're supposed to. You give up an inch of travel for the BPE's and they make what should be simple shock swapping an absolute nightmare. The H3 is not a good candidate for BPEs, and it is very tight at the top of the rear shocks...little room to stray from the stock layout. Jeep or GM bar-pins are a close match but sometimes require minor grinding to fit the bolt spacing of the H3. Another tip...cut your stock bar-pins out of your factory shocks, and re-use them in your new shocks. That way they bolt up exactly like they should.
On the front...everyone (I do mean EVERYONE) hates stud-mount shocks. The nut invariably rusts to the shaft and, that means it will spin and spin anytime you try to remove it. You eventually end up cutting them off. I really don't have a solution for this. It makes a lot of sense to fabricate some sort of shock tab attachment at the top, (some hoops perhaps?)...so you can run traditional eye-to-eye shocks. Whatever you come up with will surely be more than a bolt-on project. So for that reason you may have to stay with the stud-type mounting. Most shock companies offer stud mounting but, you might have to poke around and find the correct application. I've found that most sales people won't even take the time to look it up for you...so you might have to track that down yourself.
Lastly...2" shocks work great. 2.5" is totally unnecessary, unless you are using the shock itself to support the weight of the vehicle (coil-overs). Since you are keeping the torsion bar suspension, the shock is only there for dampening. Reservoirs are totally unnecessary on a stock H3. There is not enough travel (fluid displacement) to warrant external reservoirs. I have 12" of travel on my SAS/SOA and I actually think external reservoirs are overkill for 99% of my driving. However, on occasion...I do gank it to the max, and when that happens, the fluid needs a place to go outside of the main tube...so reservoirs are justified. But a stock H3 is lucky to get 4" of travel, so there is not much argument for having them. I do recommend them if you do a SOA on the rear, as this will net you a tremendous improvement in travel. But on the front?...no way, just run mono-tube bypass units. Cheap, simple, easy...total KISS project.
