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08 Alpha 4” Rancho lift Stance 32” tire height.
- Thread starter lfootmatt
- Start date
H3Hummer
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 695
- Location
- LUXEMBOURG in EU
too much and not good for CV's anyway !
Crank your T bars at front, max 23.5", from Wheel hub center to Fender bottom and put 1.25 or 2" longer shekels at the rear . Going over 23.5 " at front can serious affect those CV's
Crank your T bars at front, max 23.5", from Wheel hub center to Fender bottom and put 1.25 or 2" longer shekels at the rear . Going over 23.5 " at front can serious affect those CV's
- Messages
- 10,647
- Location
- Scottsdale
He's got a Rancho lift kit so the CVs are still level; he's in good shape. You are right on target if he'd done this just with the torsion bars.
Rake doesn't bother me. I had a rake on my Rancho lifted H3. But it's a bit exaggerated with the smaller tire size and here the level definitely looks better.
H3Hummer
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 695
- Location
- LUXEMBOURG in EU
Ok thanks alrock 
so Rancho lift kits safe on CV's, Good to know... I thought they keep a bad angle on CV's and you must have stronger and longer once installed.
so Rancho lift kits safe on CV's, Good to know... I thought they keep a bad angle on CV's and you must have stronger and longer once installed.
zebra
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 199
- Location
- cold & windy
it looks like you've got taller tires on back-order
Yeah, the ranch leaf springs are totally shot, sags a ton in the back. So much that if I fill the gas tank to full it smells horribly of gas, coughs, sputters and stalls until I burn some off. I think it’s sitting so low in the back that at full it runs back into the fill pipe and jacks with the evap and vents.
It also bangs in the rear very harshly on pretty mild bumps in the road.
Later,
Matt
Yeah, I’d prefer a level ride height across the board too. I searched a bunch of old threads and pics of Rancho lifted H3s. Seems they had a bit of rake. My spring guy and I decided to shoot for +2-3” up from the current ride height. At 3” a bit of rake but I expect that to settle out after a few months. Rides super soft up front so I may crank the front a bit to off set the rear rake.
Then on to the front drive shaft, new cars, oil pan gasket, cooling mods, completing rapter lining plastics, fudge, the list has no end!!!!
Later,
Matt
Then on to the front drive shaft, new cars, oil pan gasket, cooling mods, completing rapter lining plastics, fudge, the list has no end!!!!
Later,
Matt
Not leaking anywhere, but you can smell gasoline fumes. It seems like when you fill it all the way up it’s filling up too far into the Phil tube. I believe it might be covering the vent to running to the EAP system as well. Only does it when filling it completely full until the pump handle hit the auto stop.
Coughs, sputters and stalls until you drive it 15 or 20 minutes then it’s back to completely normal.
MakoaH3
Probationary Member
- Messages
- 3
- Location
- California
The front should sit at about 26.0-26.5" hub center to fender on the Rancho kit so rear should be at that too or slightly higher.
Looking at my pics I’m hitting right at 26” in the front and 23-23.5 in back. When I jacked up the rear for the pics the front dipped down about 1/2”.
Hopefully it comes out nice and not jacked too high in the back. Like I said, maybe just a touch of a crank in the front if it needs leveled a bit.
Thanks for the ride height data!
Matt
MakoaH3
Probationary Member
- Messages
- 3
- Location
- California
Snippet from the Rancho install manual below. Are you just getting the rancho springs re-arched?
4speedfunk
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 4,244
- Location
- Tardville
I would do a SOA before the re-arch. Works good with the Rancho kit.
Now you tell me!
spring over with the shot Rancho leaf springs or factory leaf springs?The shop added so much arch the fell ~3” short of the rear shackle. Using a 2X4 scrap as a runner I was able to compress and slide the rear end tip eye/bushing into the shackle and get the bolt in. Now leaf spring center pin that indexes into the axle tube mount is a solid 2” too far forward. Compressing the spring upward with a floor jack made little difference.
Am I missing something or did they just add wayyyy too much arch back in to the springs?
Thanks in advance!!!
Matt
PS I have an email into Rancho requesting their leaf spring specs.
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nope. I stamped them for DS front and PS front so I’d be sure. I suppose he could have packed the rest of the spring pack backwards. But the top wedge/spacer is correct too with the Fat end forward. Hopefully Ranch comes through with the specs like they did for the bushings!
Later,
Matt
I suppose the axle shifting is a possibility. However, when I dropped the leaf springs out, the axle didn’t really seem to move at all. I did not disconnect the swaybar links. So that’s generally holding it in position. I’m not sure if that makes any difference or not.
I suppose I’ll go ahead and persuade it into deposition and mount it up and see what happens. My guess is I’m gonna gain 6 to 8 inches of lift in the rear. It’s gonna look stupid as hell.
Hopefully Rancho gets back to me with the engineering data on the leafspring specifications. They were phenomenally responsive with all of the busing data. I previously asked for. If I get that that I can just measure the springs and determine if they’re right, or need to be re-arched again.
Later,
Matt
Yep, both lead springs are out. The only thing holding the diff in is the rear sway-bar links. Perhaps I should have bolted them up to the diff first then persuaded the bushings into place. That might be the play.
I’ll hit it again this coming weekend. Honestly, I don’t have time for any of this. Getting crushed at work and up against a hard deadline to complete my Master’s degree. No stress here
Later,
Matt