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I think it's a likely a broken front diff, especially since you say it was binding when turning before. When you put it in 4WD lock, how did you do it? To get it to work properly for this situation, turn off the truck. Then turn the ignition on but do not start. Put it in 4WD Hi Lock, then start...

Those devices are still around and still work. Range is one brand. I just chose to make it permanent. And for the record, my truck is still at the shop and the engine is still out of the truck. And yes, Doug, it's great to hear from you!

Considering the symptoms, I don’t know if you have many options but to take down the transfer case and tear it open. I also wonder if it’s the transmission rebuild - it wouldn’t be the first rebuild that wasn’t successful. But to prove that point you may need to prove that the transfer case...

The transfer case does come with a plastic fork; replacements are all metal. When you switch modes for the transfer case, especially from low to hi, can you hear or feel it engaging? But even with a worn shift fork it should work up until the time you try and switch modes. I'm sure someone else...

Question for you - did your vehicle come with a tow package? When you said you found the wires by the steering wheel, was that to the left (closer to the door) or to the right, closer to the stereo? From what I've read, people have found the brake controller wires under or near the stereo and...

Replacing all three should fix the problem, but it may not do so. When I first did that mod, I first swapped my HVAC control unit with another one and it didn't fix the issue. You may have better luck.

I'm no wheel expert, but the main thing I see in that one is that the offset is +18 vs. +38 for stock wheels. Looks like your tire will be 0.79" further out. Don't know if that would cause issue.

Salvage yard may be your best bet, like here: https://www.importapart.com/complete-car-part-outs/07-hummer-h3-3-7l-with-132k-miles-hit-in-front-in-for-parts-5-1-23/

Battery - nothing "looks bad"? Did you have it tested, or swap with a known-good battery? Unlikely one could diagnose a broken battery visually.

FYI, you have only a short time to go edit your own posts. I forget the amount of time, but it's not terribly long.

@Don_ Vrgs , welcome to H4O. Why don't you share a bit about yourself in the "Fresh Meat" section and show us your vehicle?

Batteries can, and do, fail within 2 years. That doesn't mean I'm saying that's the issue, but it's the most common first step in troubleshooting. After that, I'd confirm, test, inspect, etc. the following items: Battery terminals - are they tight and not corroded? Battery cables - any signs of...

Have you replaced the battery yet? Just because you got it running doesn't necessarily mean it's going to run well. Modern vehicles are very dependent on a good current from the battery.

First, check that none of the 4WD control buttons are stuck in or halfway in. With the H3 on, try cycling through the different modes. But often this might be an ABS sensor issue, anything from mud in the tone ring to a failed sensor to a damaged lead wire. I had this coming on last month on and...

Glad that you figured it out.

Also, I suspect @atvspeed4 knows how to do this.

On the underside pic (Pic 4) are those black items screws or Christmas Tree/friction hold? If they are just friction hold it seems like you would *carefully* push them up or pry from the top, a little on each side at a time, to separate the black plastic from the metal piece. Also, is that a...

With the H3 if you're bleeding brakes, specifically the rear, with the brake pedal (the old fashioned way) the ignition must be on or it won't work. Engine does not have to be on.

Now watch your outside temp reading in the mirror go all awry with that new heat source right in front of the sensor. Not really an issue at speed, at least for me.

Good find, glad you're all set up.