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Can't help you on that one. I am using spacers but I have a lift and different wheels. For the record, I think I went with half inch and longer studs.

Found this kit. Don't know anything about it. https://partsology.com/products/engine-rebuild-kit-chevrolet-gmc-hummer-isuzu-colorado-canyon-h3-h3t-i-370-07-12-3-7l-ek3137m. You go first.

Welcome to H4O. Great looking H3T.

I like this guy's channel on YouTube and saw this video. For those curious about the I5's internals and mechanisms, here you go! Saw a couple of things that were different than I expected or were previously shared by others.

It's sad, but I've probably replaced 80% of what's in those pictures at one time or another, and a few of them two, three or four times.

Thanks, but I ended up getting one on eBay. Seems to have solved my radio issue.

Make sure to install the manufacturer's stickers in that box to unlock the full HP potential.

BTW, I forget to address your question about pressing out the old sleeve. Basically, we just forced/tore/burned it out. The bushing itself has a metal outer sleeve we had to pry and cut out since it was already completely separated from the bushing. Some of these also just fall out, leaving you...

Black Bear Pass is not a difficult trail but it it dangerous and intimidating. Keep it in low range, don't use lockers. You cannot relax and check out the scenery when driving down the switchbacks. Stop, get out, enjoy the view. Take your time on the hairpin turns and use a spotter if you're not...

That spacer might not allow it to pull up, but I highly doubt it would stop the side to side motion once the bushing is worn out. And that motion may cause the bolt to lose tension and it would all work loose.

In the pre-prototype world at Preferred Chassis, we had just a bushing from Energy Suspension to play with and a worn out factory bushing. Pieces had to be cleaned, modified and/or created to make it work. The short answer is yes, you can create your own poly or Delrin or whatever material...

Much of that chrome isn't going to easily come off, as you've seen - and that can be a good thing. I would sand the whole thing, including the chrome, smooth the transition, use an etching primer and paint. I'm sure others will have good and probably better :) ideas. I did this with bedliner...

Haven't tried it either but I've had pretty good luck with AC Delco CVs and horrible luck with Dorman. The problem with AC Delco is you have to buy the driveshaft. And the problem with Dorman isn't external influences on the boot; it just cracks and blows out grease.

There are detents in the roof rails that better hold the cross bars. If you're in between those detents the cross bars move. Loosen the clamps on the rails and feel for the detents and lock down there. You may not be able to fully clamp on the detents so move slightly so you can clamp it down...

Someone removed my second cat in my 07 but it's not an issue for me since the 2nd cat is not monitored in 07s like it is in 06. So one solution might be to cut out the 2nd cat and relocate the rear O2 sensor and move it upstream. With that second cat out, I'm pretty sure I gained about 100 hp...

Good luck with the sale.

Check your the rear bushing for the front differential in regards to that clunk. It's known to wear out and that could be the thud. Or it could be the normal slop in a GM driveline.

Reloader recovered his seats, but likely with another brand since this company didn't have an H3 pattern on file when you contacted them. If that's the only issue, can you send back those pieces and have them adjust them? (Maybe that's your plan already :) )

Welcome and thanks for the great first posts! Great questions and troubleshooting in your other thread.

I have a pretty decent Pioneer unit in mine and I don’t think the sound is as good as it was with the factory unit. However, t’s not enough to bother me to spend hundreds more in search of better sound.