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H3 Heat shield bolt broke

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
There is a stainless steel header available for very cheap. Normally I wouldn't mess with it...but since you're taking the stock manifold off, why not put go back with some improved flow (and no cracks).


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alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,667
Location
Scottsdale
Talking to a local muffler shop, he stated that the 1st cat often come separated from the manifold though mine was so badly f'ed it couldn't be welded.

As for aftermarket cats, 4speed makes a good point but if local inspection/air quality laws come into play, make sure there's a primary cat in that manifold. There have also been fitment issues with aftermarket products so just be ready to work a little extra if things don't line up. Hopefully that's not the case.

As for the heat shield, I look at it this way - GM wouldn't spend the money unless they saw likely harm happening from the heat. May not happen in a day, or in a few months, but that heat soak can damage nearby items. Y'all often say that GM is a bunch of cheap accountants, so why would they spend this $?
 

Bigunit

Hammer Down!
Staff member
Messages
6,561
Location
Arizona
Da&# lawyers! It's always their fault...they make easy scapegoats since we all know the are hated by most!
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
Yeah. Common sense means nothing anymore, and with the right law team you can sue for anything.


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santafeh3

Active Member
Messages
25
Location
New Mexico
I'm not gone, still here and thank you for info / advice.

Sure wish you'd been here paranormal - I won't embarrass myself telling the world here how long it took me to get the heat shield off but it was hours. To shorten my sad story, I cut it off / out. It was a bear. I should mention - red 2009 H3T 3.7 (obviously) - 113,000 when I bought it 6 weeks ago and now 116,500.

I will share some photos later. I left my phone at home yesterday, so had nothing to take photos with for my efforts.

After I finally got the heat shield out, started on the manifold. I think someone had replaced it at least once. There were no bolts on the very last front or rear. So instead of 9 bolts there were only 7. The front and rear bolts look like a real pain so maybe whoever replaced it said the hell with it. Also, where the "collector" is (where all the pipes come together and then bolt to the exhaust pipe - can tell I'm not a mechanic and a bit clueless anyway), at that flange there is (at least on mine) a bracket from the transmission that looked like it should have been attached to that flange - it was there but not attached to the flange end. My muffler shop friend said that may have lead to the "collector" pipe blowing apart at the top (where it attaches to the manifold). The idiot / idiots who did replace it, just folded over some tin foil from the kitchen and wrapped that around the A/C pipe and some of the other electrical wires. (Didn't notice that when I "checked" out the engine prior to handing the man my money for my new "baby."

I said a prayer (yes, really) that none of the manifold bolts would break off. I hit them with (one of my favorites) WD-40, let them sit, hit them again, let them sit. They were very tight but they started - all 7 started so loosened them all, took out 5 and left 2 loosened just a bit. Went down below to work on the flange (mentioned above) but I couldn't even get them to budge so hit them with the WD40 a couple of times and went home.

Now it's 10:00 a.m. MST and am headed back to the beast. I try not to let her hear me swear like a drunken sailor but it happened a couple hundred times yesterday. Will try to do better today.

The manifold (without taking it completely off) looks like it is good, no visible cracks, etc. BUT after reading this whole thread and a couple others from various sources and even with money on the short side, I've about convinced myself to go with a MagnaFlo with the integrated cat. Most sources show a price of $529.

ANY advice would be very much appreciated concerning the MagnaFlo header - how it fits, the install, etc. Also, gaskets, new bolts, what kind and finally, where to buy it for the best post purchase service.

Wrapping the manifold is a mute point but certainly appreciated the advice / info on that. I also did some reading, however, about wrapping headers. I thought the same thing about holding the heat in (who would want to do that) but turns out (at least the way I understand it) makes the exhaust move faster because it's hot and the other end (tailpipe) isn't. Maybe someone else can lend more info on this.

Dispatched from Taos, NM
More to come if I don't commit hari kari first. My baby and I are in a love/hate relationship right now.








The dipstick is held in place by one bolt. Remove the bolt and pull up on the dipstick, it'll come out. You can go to an auto parts place and buy yourself an O2 sensor tool for about $12. Undo the O2 sensor plug, unscrew the sensor with your new socket, remove the dipstick and after a few tries, you'll be able to take the heat shield out from the top.
 

Paranormal

Well-Known Member
Messages
128
Location
Suffolk County, New York
LOL
As much as a enjoy working on my cars, the exhaust manifold in my H3 and my brakes on my H1, both kicked my ass. I was sore for a few days after. That heat shield was aggrevating because I could not get it out. I could not tell you what I did or which way I turned it but after several tries, it just slid out. Good luck with the install, it should be simple. You already completed the hard part.
 

santafeh3

Active Member
Messages
25
Location
New Mexico
Still here - don't want anyone to think I'm not appreciate of the info/advice.

Will post a few pics and the sequence I did. Then hopefully someone will tell me and others the way I should have done it (-:

Unless something else happens, Monday I'm going to order the Magnaflow header/cat from hottexhaust.com. They have a special 25% off end of year coupon which makes the $529 $395 and free shipping. I'm waiting until Monday to make sure they have them in stock.

I'm also going to replace both ox sensors and the MAF - ANY advice on where to buy these items. I've seen Bosch, ACDelco and NTK - Advice?

Since the beast has 116,000, I'm going to drain (suck) the rear end oil and replace.

Had a heck of a time getting the flange bolts out from where the collector / cat joins the exhaust pipe. My ex-boss whose shop I'm using got under and with a make shift breaker bar (another open/box wrench) broke all three loose.

Didn't have the right wrench to remove the ox sensor on top but did get the radiator drained and the heater hoses off as well as the trans dipstick out.

It looks like (and Paranormal confirmed) that either the torsion bar or drive shaft will have to be taken off. I think the drive line - looks easier.

That's all from Taos tonight

Thanks again for advice/info.
 

rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,830
Location
Bellflower, CA
Let the fun begin. You will find that servicing the H3 is a lot easier than most 4x4's. I used the AC Delco O2's. Just clean you MAF unless it's throwing a code. I buy 90% of my stuff from Amazon, I'm buying stuff as I write.
 

santafeh3

Active Member
Messages
25
Location
New Mexico
Just ordered my Magnaflow header/cat from hottexhaust.com (yes, 2 t's). They were out of stock in California so its coming from Ontario - 4 days which is killing me but.......

End of year sale - **** 25% OFF **** - plus free shipping - instead of $529.19 ----- $395.83!

If anyone is even thinking about this header/cat part # 51085, you may want to consider getting one now and save $130.00 - just a thought. And no, I don't have anything to do with this company other than my order.

Once you click on a Magnaflow product, their authorized retailer icon comes up. Their dealer number is 1000350 so feel good about this retailer UNLESS one of you all tell me different.

To the beast to take off the manifold, etc. I'll continue my saga when I have more to report. Also, I will TRY to put together a "how I did it" when I'm done. It may come out being "how I did it wrong" but then someone else will know not to do it my way .

Posted from Taos.
 

santafeh3

Active Member
Messages
25
Location
New Mexico
Well here I am back. Finally got the two broken exhaust manifold bolts out (very front one and the very rear one) that the last guy decided he would just say the heck with it and put on TWO gaskets.

I am attaching a couple of photos of the 5 cylinders and the "vacuum something or another" in hopes someone can tell me what is going on with #5 (rear of engine next to firewall).

Have not attached the Magnaflow header with cat yet but did install ZenonPro.com's Bi-Xenon HID kit. Haven't had a chance yet to turn them on as the battery is completely out of my H3T. I did take a lot of photos so will post those along with some narrative when I get the beast running again.

As can be seen, there is a lot of "crap" in the #5 cylinder. I am hoping someone can tell me what is going on there. Also in the "vacuum something or another" there is some more gunk. Explanation from anyone as to what that is would also be appreciated.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Regards,

Posted From Taos

Ex Cylinder 1.JPGEx Cylinder 2.JPGEx Cylinder 3.JPGEx Cylinder 4.jpgEx Cylinder 5.jpgVacuum Something.jpg
 

santafeh3

Active Member
Messages
25
Location
New Mexico
Hadn't noticed this before Rascole - I was born in Bellflower in the Naval Hospital there (gone now). That should give you an idea of the age of this dinosaur (-:

Posted From Taos
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,250
Location
Tardville
Those ports look perfectly normal for 117k miles. Grab a shop-vac and a cordless drill. Hit the ports with small wire wheels and/or cones and try to clean them up...but honestly that all looks good to me. I'de go easy using a gasket scraper since you're dealing with aluminum...a wire wheel works better and you won't be prone to gouging the gasket surfaces. That #5 exhaust port definitely has some more build-up on it but, I'm not sure that is cause for concern just yet. That could be any number of minor things...valve seal/guide wear, piston ring wear, or valve seat wear. If you are concerned, you can do a compression test and compare the #5 cylinder to the others, to arrive at a "percentage difference" for that cylinder. Everybody has a different opinion of what percentage validates a tear-down but, I would say leave it alone unless #5 is more than 20% off the other four cylinders.

You can also pull the valve cover to get a better look. Often times a valve seal/guide issue will be real obvious because the valve spring on that cylinder will have a similar "sooty" appearance from the exhaust gases escaping past the guide/seal. I have a tool that allows you to change valve seals with the head in place. It uses an air compressor fitting that threads into the spark-plug hole, and the air pressure holds the valve tight against the seat so you can remove the rocker arm, spring, and retainer...without the valve dropping down into the cylinder. You can then inspect the seal and you can also grab the valve stem and give it a "feel" to see if the guide is excessively worn. A new seal can be installed this way but, unfortunately a new guide means pulling the head. That's a lot of work, and that's where I come up with the "20% rule". Unless its knocking, ticking, or fouling the plug within 500 miles...I say leave it alone. I've seen motors run another 100k with ports worse than that.
 

santafeh3

Active Member
Messages
25
Location
New Mexico
I sure do appreciate your response 4speedfunk. I am doing all this work myself but that does NOT mean I'm a wrench. I simply couldn't afford $2,000 - $2,500 to have my local GM dealer do it nor the foreign car specialist (they actually do all vehicles but specialize in the foreign stuff) so with the help of YouTube, this forum and google, I'm getting it done - slowly for sure but I am getting it done. (The $2,000 - $2,500 would have been replacing the manifold with OEM replacement parts. Was quoted $1,450 for the manifold alone at the GM dealer )-:

I was concerned about installing the header without some knowledge of what was going on with #5. Obviously I'd brush it good and suck everything out that I could but wanted someone with a lot more knowledge than I to give some advice/feedback. Also, thanks for the advice on cleaning with a gasket scraper. That's exactly what I was going to do so now will use a brush instead and do already have a drill and wire brush wheels.

Thanks again - much appreciated.

Regards,

Posted from Taos
 

santafeh3

Active Member
Messages
25
Location
New Mexico
I know this is a ? suspension item ? but my phone is dead and I don't have my password to start a new thread. I've searched but didn't find anything close to what I need, so just point me to a thread and I'll go running to it but in the mean time will someone help me out please:

Both of mine are crumbling bad. I just pulled on one (gently) and a piece just broke off.

Rear Suspension Bushing Manual.jpgRear Suspension Bushing copy.jpg
 

santafeh3

Active Member
Messages
25
Location
New Mexico
I replaced the "bump stops" but just with the original OEM's.

As stated previously, it was a very easy install. A "curved screw driver" forced the old one out (one literally fell apart it was so bad), the other one actually came out in 2 pieces. Getting the new ones in were a cinch as well. I apologize for not getting a video but had a few other things to worry about at the time - getting the headers on and everything back to normal.

Regards,

Posted from Taos
 

HBH3

Member
Messages
6
Location
California
Hello, long time looking around Hummer Forums. I am wondering if the rattle you were experiencing is similar to mine. I am experiencing an odd rattle ONLY when the engine is warm after running for a few miles. It ONLY happens around 2,000 RPM driving or in Neutral/Stopped I can make it go on for a long time if I hold the RPM around 2,000 RPM. Again, this does not happen when it's cold. The sound is like a cow with a cold :)

I have an '09 H3 3.7L i5 manual

EDIT: I did take it to a muffler shop and the dude worked for an hour trying to fix it and no luck He removed the heat shield under the front passenger side area thinking that was it... he did not put it back on, he said its useless and likely to rattle later on... should I have had him put it back on?
 
Last edited:

HBH3

Member
Messages
6
Location
California
Forgot about the trans tube dip stick, mine was a 5 speed MANual. Even without the trans tube in the way my 09 had a bunch other things in the way to simply just pull it up and out.

Hey I see you have a manual transmission. I too have manual on an '09 H3. Can you confirm if your transmission has this hole near the rubber plug? I don't remember it being there and it seems kind of fresh to me. wondering if anything was removed while investigating a rattle at a muffler shop
http://imgur.com/a/rW6DK
 
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