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JPaul's H3 Base build

JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,436
Location
Way up north, UT
Once I had the brackets mounted, it was time to start running the coax.

I ran it out the firewall grommet (really glad I have that installed already, I've already had to go up once step in size on it) and then up the A-pillar. I didn't have much left for split loom so the little bit I did have I used down by the base of the windshield to protect that from the sharper edges. I used hot glue to hold the coax in place on the A-pillar, though it might not last.

5JfMGmx.jpg



I routed the coax out from under the breather cap, turns out there is a really nice gap right there for wiring to come out, and it keeps it away from the hood hinge.

9AiBQ8L.jpg
 

JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,436
Location
Way up north, UT
Next up was the 2M antenna. This one took a little bit because I had to do some soldering and figuring out. Went pretty well though.

YeuVbF4.jpg


Tested out the radio and was able to hit a local repeater with 5 watts just fine, and after getting my SWR meter to cooperate, I found without any adjustments I was getting about 1.2-1.5 SWR which is good enough for me, for now anyway. Apparently though my modulation was low so I'm a bit quiet on the audio. I'm working on figuring out what I need to do about that, since it is a rather old radio I am using (Icom IC-228H).

Once the 2M was done it was time for the CB. While I was running the coax I went ahead and put in the PA speaker I picked up last year. Nothing fancy, cost me $10 off Amazon. Why do I have it? Because I can... Also it'll be good for when I am on the trail and need to yell as some daft person to get clear of the truck, and I can annoy people with it if I so choose. :giggle:

I was in a hurry though so I simply zip tied it to the bracket for the air box. It's pretty light so that really might be a permanent mounting solution.

vNJ3zCv.jpg



Here's the finished CB mount, after adjusting the antenna (it's a Firestik II which has the screw adjuster in the tip) I ended up with a 1:1 SWR, or at least it's so low it's basically 1:1:

fu3x8bq.jpg


On each of those I have a bonding wire going from the bracket down to the bolt that clamps on the roof rack channel. On the CB I have the outer shield going to that same 10-32 bolt on the bracket I used for the bonding wire, and on the 2M mount I simply used internal tooth lockwashers on the bolts used to mount the NMO to the bracket. I used internal tooth lockwashers on all of the electrical connections to ensure a good bond. The best way I know how to do it is to put a internal tooth lockwasher on the bolt first, then slip on your ring terminal, then add another internal tooth lockwasher before bolting it on. If you have more than one ring terminal, make sure you add a internal tooth lockwasher between each terminal to ensure good bonding. You can get them in a baggie cheap from Home Depot. Lowes for some reason only wants to sell 2 or 3 to a bag for some reason, while Home Depot does 10+ I think per bag.
 

JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,436
Location
Way up north, UT
Also got the front facing camera setup. It's actually the rear backup camera, but I had bought a new one to use for the front just to find out that it was only a reverse image camera, so I put the new one in the rear and moved the old one to the frint since I can push a button on it to switch it between normal/reverse/right side up/upside down/lines/no lines. I have it aimed so that it can see immediately in front of me (where my line of vision is cut off by the hood up to directly in front of my bumper). The idea here is so that when I am on the trail (or anywhere else) I can see directly in front of me to pick my line better.

rLGYR2z.jpg


rVAzGb2.jpg


Don't mind the super messy garage, I've been really busy lately.

Unfortunately it seems this camera wasn't aligned very well at the factory so it's tilted a bit. I think I'll get another one anyway that I can mount up in the grill or something to increase the viewing area as well as be able to watch the winch when I am winching from inside the cab to make sure the cable is spooling on ok.
 

JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,436
Location
Way up north, UT
Well, I have been meaning to document the other additions I have made to the H3 since my last posts, but this is not that. Instead I'm going to post about the car accident I got into this morning on my way to work. The road my house is on goes down a short hill and has a 90 degree corner at the bottom of it. During the winter this section is steep enough that if it's the least bit icy or slick you either struggle to get up it unless you have 4wd, or you WILL slide down it when trying to slow for the turn at the bottom, no matter how good your tires are. That includes me and my big heavy H3. (Yes I know it's not that big and not that heavy, but still, it makes a difference).

Long story shorter is there was another SUV that had slid down the hill and across the corner to the other side and went off the road and was stuck. That's not the car I hit when I slid myself. Instead I hit the "good samaritan" that decided to stop to help the SUV driver, but when doing so she thought it'd be OK to leave her car parked in the middle of her lane at the bottom of the hill. So of course when I realized she was stopped there, and that I was sliding, it was too late. Slid right into her rear drivers side passenger door and crumpled it pretty good. And of course my Thor bumper completely missed and instead my front drivers grill and fender took the hit, as well as the fog light pod on the Thor bumper.

So now I need a new grille, fender (the plastic part), headlight (it broke the part the turn signal is mounted to), and some body work where the Thor bumper fog light pod mounts to the body. That's all that I know of, but it's probably all that there is.

Of course all of these parts are still quite expensive, even if you can find them used, so I'm probably just going to have to pay my $500 deductible and get it fixed. Until I found the prices for everything, I thought I might be able to fix it for less than $500. But nope. Hummer tax, yay!!


I'll post some pics later today once I get them uploaded to my Imgur account.

I really like my Thor bumper, but honestly, I think I need to switch it out for an ARB instead to get the full coverage. Unfortunately I really don't have the money for an ARB right now, or in the foreseeable future even. I was going to make a sturdy brush guard to help protect the front end, but I'm not sure about that now, I think I need something a bit sturdier. Not that I get in wrecks all the time, but when I do my front end will be destroyed as it stands now.
 

JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,436
Location
Way up north, UT
Well, working with Allstate has been super easy so far, I had an adjuster look at it this morning and they did an electronic funds transfer to my bank account for payout. I'm going to be getting more once I start tearing it down and send them the additional damage info, the adjuster did not include the headlight, but said I just have to take pictures of it once the grill is off showing the damage and they'll issue a reimbursement for it.

Hopefully I can fix it up for as little as possible. Then I can use the rest of the funds for upgrades. :horns:
 

JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,436
Location
Way up north, UT
4 hours just to replace the headlight on the Hummer...

Turns out the damage to the sheet metal was bad enough to force me to have to rework one of the mounting points for the headlight, it had gotten pushed back about 1/3" and a bit mangled. Thanks to some help from my wonderful wife I was able to avoid having to try to hammer it out and instead used some C-clamps and some bits of thick steel and even a piece of 2x4 to pull it back out and more or less flatten the surrounding metal. There is still a bunch of damage there but I don't think I'm going to bother trying to fix it. It's all hidden anyway, and aside from the one headlight mounting point none of it is affecting anything.

I still need to repaint the damaged area, but I'll wait till a warmer period for that. I'll probably just primer it and then coat it with some more underbody coating, the professional stuff from Rust-Oleum works really well, it dries hard and has held up well everywhere else I've used it on the Hummer.

I also need to fix the fender still, but some red duct tape is helping hold it together for now and make the damage a little less noticeable.

I also need to fix the damage to the Thor bumper light pods and grille, but those are pretty low priority for me right now. And depending on cost and what I end up deciding to do for better front protection, I may just be getting the new pods 4speed is working on. I did have to remove them though to work on the sheetmetal for the headlight.

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Jack_M

Well-Known Member
Messages
90
Location
Vanderbilt, Mi
Sorry to hear about the accident, that sucks! Nice build there! What size tires did you go with the 285 or the 305? I need to look at your roof basket a little better and see if I can make one myself I think it looks a lot better than some of the other options out there!
 

JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,436
Location
Way up north, UT
Sorry to hear about the accident, that sucks! Nice build there! What size tires did you go with the 285 or the 305? I need to look at your roof basket a little better and see if I can make one myself I think it looks a lot better than some of the other options out there!
Thanks! They are 285 Duratrac's. The roof basket is something I picked up from someone locally here that built it themselves. It's actually not as nice in person as it is in the pics or from a distance, (ugly welds, inconsistent lengths of tube, crooked joints, etc) but it was cheap ($50) and a decent size. I'd really prefer a proper floor for it, it's kind of a pain trying to walk on it and it lets stuff sit directly on the roof. But just adding some expanded metal grating to it would do the trick.

I'd also prefer if it was a bit wider. The length isn't too bad though. It also needs a wind deflector on the front to help with drag.

I still might build my own rack that is more to my liking and needs, but this will do fine for now.

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JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,436
Location
Way up north, UT
Picked up a couple Green Pin 5 ton shackles (5/8" forged) and a Columbus McKinnon 3/8" hook for the winch yesterday and today I swapped the hook out from the cheap stock one. I happened across them at a surplus store here (NPS). Lucky day, they were $3.00 a pound so all three of them came to just over $20 total with tax. The hook comes with a roll pin to secure the main pin, but I wanted to be able to easily remove it if needs be (to use a shackle instead for example) so I used a 1/8" clip pin to retain it. I need to do the same for the 5/8" shackles and the 9.5 ton 7/8" shackles I got last year.

Kv8jUbN.jpg



I like this hook not just because it's built far better than the one that comes with the Harbor Freight winch, and stronger as well (8,800 pounds working load limit, I think the HF one is only 5,600 lbs WLL), but also because it is larger and will fit my straps a lot better. Then ends of my straps just don't fit very securely in the original hook, it's just a little too small. I would like to eventually find a 1/2" hook since it has a WLL of 15,000 lbs, but this one will do for now, especially being so cheap.

pc6qInf.jpg
 

Panzer07

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,548
Location
Ontario, CA
Picked up a couple Green Pin 5 ton shackles (5/8" forged) and a Columbus McKinnon 3/8" hook for the winch yesterday and today I swapped the hook out from the cheap stock one. I happened across them at a surplus store here (NPS). Lucky day, they were $3.00 a pound so all three of them came to just over $20 total with tax. The hook comes with a roll pin to secure the main pin, but I wanted to be able to easily remove it if needs be (to use a shackle instead for example) so I used a 1/8" clip pin to retain it. I need to do the same for the 5/8" shackles and the 9.5 ton 7/8" shackles I got last year.


I like this hook not just because it's built far better than the one that comes with the Harbor Freight winch, and stronger as well (8,800 pounds working load limit, I think the HF one is only 5,600 lbs WLL), but also because it is larger and will fit my straps a lot better. Then ends of my straps just don't fit very securely in the original hook, it's just a little too small. I would like to eventually find a 1/2" hook since it has a WLL of 15,000 lbs, but this one will do for now, especially being so cheap.
5/8 wow thats the size of the hook at tge end of my strp...My buddy had me hook up good with what he said the last set of shackles and perhaps straps I'd ever need.
5ae143d1acc8c18e08d3feed84839749.jpg


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JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,436
Location
Way up north, UT
Hoo boy, it's been a bit since I updated this, mostly because it's been a bit since I've really done anything with the H3. But to give you an idea of where I'm at and where I'm going, here's my current "To Do" list, which is probably still very incomplete, and it is in no particular order other than the order I thought of things:


To do:

Replace shocks
Repair rear defroster connector
Finish wiring oil pressure gauge dimmer circuit
Fix front left door speaker
Replace tweeters
Install snorkel
Re-mount horns
Pull UCP, clean and recoat
Replace ignition coils
Investigate intermittent starting issues (parking/neutral switch?)
Replace air filter
Build fold over antenna mounts
Build overhead console
Move CB and 2M radios
Move ultragauge ?
Repair trailer wiring socket
Add wind deflector to cargo rack
Build storage drawers
Add back of seat storage
Fabricate fold away/removable cargo barrier for rear storage
Fabricate new cargo rack with removable sides?
Fabricate front end protection
Add rock rail steps and fender bars
Install campsite lighting
Rear door cargo storage
Fabricate fuel can carriers(s)
Upgrade rear bumper
Add skid plate to tow hitch
Fabricate ladder to reach cargo rack
Upgrade exterior corner lighting to LED
Upgrade interior lighting to LED
Reposition/rewire winch solenoid box
Convert to dual battery setup
Add oil catch can
Install dash cam
Fabricate tail lamp guards
Fabricate improved oil pan skid plate
Install on board air system
Repair front fender
Replace damaged TPS
Investigate too short TPS nipple
Install laptop swing arm?
Add Amateur Radio MESH mobile node w/Raspberry Pi
Fabricate rifle storage (rear door? Inside roof? Behind rear seat?)
Add pistol holster
Install lockbox (under seat?)
Add external transmission cooler
Install steering rack bracket
Replace differential bushings with Outfitter Design parts


There's surely a number of other things I've been forgetting, but I realized I needed to make a list when I kept forgetting that I really needed to fix the rear defroster, since I keep needing it this spring. Hopefully I can get most, if not all, of these done this year, so that next year I can work on upgrading the truck even more. It's definitely a process.
 

JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,436
Location
Way up north, UT
I started on the snorkel this morning, but after a run to Lowes to get a hole saw and step drills, searching for my angle grinder, and messing around with the antenna, all I've managed to get done after 3 hours is remove the wheel well liner and get the antenna extension installed.

I tried to unscrew the antenna, but it turns out GM was staking them in place, so I sheared off the antenna which left a good amount of the threads still in the mount.

I used my angle grinder to grind off the staked part (but it took me an hour of searching and cleaning up my sode of the garage before I finally found my grinder), but I still couldn't get the threads to budge.

So next I drilled it out and used a small file to cut the remaining threads top to bottom and used a pick to pry them out. Thankfully the threads on the mount were still in good enough shape to be able to hold the bolt fir the extension.

Now it's 1pm and time to have some lunch before I try to tackle the rest of the job...

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amrg

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2,317
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Qatar
When I did the snorkel I had the same issue. Bought a new antenna.
Just remember to use the template for the markings and triple check them before you start making that hole in the fender. Better safe than try to fix an improper hole.
The snorkel does have some width to it so it will cover slight deviations

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JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,436
Location
Way up north, UT
I just barely got finished. I started around 10:30AM and it's now 11:32PM. About an hour of that was for lunch, and about two hours for dinner. That's still 10 hours to install the dang thing.

Here's the antenna mount finished up:

Bu4Tnqc.jpg



After I got the antenna all sorted out, I thought the A-pillar bracket wouldn't be much trouble. Boy was I wrong! While I understand the simplicity of just riveting on the bracket to the A-pillar over the trim piece, I find it a terrible idea in the long run. When you end up replacing the windshield again, you'd have to drill out the rivets and then rivet it back in place. And of course you'll need to do that yourself because I would not trust anyone else to do it properly, half the time they can't even pop trim off without breaking something. In addition I personally have coax cable running up that side under the A-pillar trim and I need to be able to service it if the need arises, plus I may route wires up that side for lights.

So my bright idea was to use rivnuts and bolt it in place instead. Which was a great idea, except for the little issue of there being a reinforcing tube right behind the location you drill into the A-pillar for the bracket, and it's only about 1/8" away from the part you drill into. So there is zero room to put a rivnut in. And of course I discovered this after I had already drilled the pilot holes and enlarged one of them. I ended up having to shift everything over by 1/4" and redrilling the holes in the A-pillar, the trim piece, and the snorkel bracket. Then on top of that since I didn't have a rivnut setting tool I was just using the technique of threading a nut onto a bolt and then threading the bolt into the rivnut after inserting it into the hole, then holding the bolt in place and turning the nut to set the rivnut. This was a great idea and worked really well for the first two but then the third one the rivnut ended up spinning, even though I was using some engine assembly lube to try and keep it from galling the threads and to help everything move properly. I ran off to Harbor Freight to pick up a rivnut setting tool, but that was just to find out theirs only does standard threads and the rivnuts I had bought were metric (since everything else on the car is metric I wanted to keep with that). So that was a nice waste of time, though I did pick up another box of nitrile gloves, I had run out a few weeks ago.

Fortunately I remembered how I was really supposed to be doing it, which involved using a piece of bar stock with a hole drilled in it and positioning that between the rivnut and the nut you're turning. That way it's impossible for the rivnut to start spinning. So I just used the bracket and threaded a bolt into one of the other holes to hold it in place and finished setting the last rivnut, and then checked to make sure the other two were set correctly.

Rivnuts set, you can see the mistakes that were made...

gioiHTo.jpg


Setting the last rivnut:

nUOH6gR.jpg


Bracket is installed. Notice how suddenly it's dark out. That's just how my day was going today.

5kwj7hQ.jpg


And here is the spacer I made to go between the A-pillar and the trim. I used the RTV I was going to be using to seal the air box to glue the spacer to the trim so that I won't have to fuss around with positioning it when installing/removing the trim. I also used the RTV to seal off the speed holes I put in the A-pillar. The rivnuts were installed with some gasket maker on them to seal up the metal, and then the bolts had thread sealant applied to them to help prevent water seepage. I did end up replacing those heax head screws with some button head stainless steel ones, since I ended up having to make a run to Lowes later (right before they were closing no less).

S4X9eQf.jpg



I thought that with that done the last major hurdle was over and the rest of it would be all downhill. Well, it sure went downhill after that...

The rivets they provide are nice stainless steel ones, but as it turns out, you have to have a super heavy duty rivet setter to be able to use the 3/16" shank stainless steel rivets they give you. I ended up blowing apart my nice, hardly used, pivoting head rivet setter on the first rivet, and it never even set it all the way.

jGbQG31.jpg

1ZNKOk8.jpg


So I had to run to Lowes to buy a new rivet setter and some 3/16" shank aluminum rivets. So include the rivet gun, I also had to buy a 4 inch hole saw, and a set of step drills to do this install. That cost me over $100 in additional/replacement tools just to install this thing. I better get another 20HP with the trouble and expense this snorkel has caused.

tF6zqeO.jpg



All told, if I were to do this again, I probably would, but only because now I know what I need to do differently, and then it wouldn't take me over 10 hours to do it. There's an awful lot of gotcha's though that you have to watch out for. For starters, don't bother trying to unscrew the antenna until you've cut off the end of the plastic cover so that you can see where you need to use an angle grinder or bastard file to remove the staked part. Then you might be able to unscrew it. If not, plan on just braking off the antenna and drilling it out.

Another gotcha is if you're going to just rivet on the A-pillar bracket, that's fine but know that you'll have a pain to deal with the next time you need to replace your windshield. If you elect to use rivnuts like I did to make it easily removable, redrill the holes in the bracket 1/4" over FIRST, then mark the holes for the trim and drill the pilot holes using the new locations.

Lastly, ditch the stainless steel rivets for the air box portion, aluminum is more than strong enough, and make sure to use the washers for the rivets so that they don't accidentally pull through the plastic. Oh, and make sure to center the adapter on the air box, it fits fine height wise, but width wise it has over a 1/4" of play for some reason. I centered it first and clamped it in place with some 6" mini quick clamps, drilled the top and bottom holes, and then the side holes. When I riveted it together I started with the top and bottom holes first again, and then riveted the side holes. I also used a judicious amount of the red RTV sealant since I didn't have any of the sipaflex or whatever sealant they say to use. I went around it on the outside afterwards to make sure it was sealed up everywhere and to cover over the rivets so that water can't get in through them either.

Those were the three big gotcha's I had to deal with when installing the snorkel. If you plan for those then it shouldn't be a big deal to install it in a few hours or so. I spent a lot of time trying to locate tools to fix stuff along the way and working through the issues I ran into. Otherwise it's a pretty simple and quick job.

You'll get a photo of it installed tomorrow when it's light out. I need to shower and go to bed...
 

JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,436
Location
Way up north, UT
It's really not that bad of a job once you know what to watch out for. I spent a lot of time searching for my tools and figuring things out. If you just start off knowing you're going to need to grind out the staked part of the antenna mount you can probably get it to actually unscrew. And with the bracket if you're going to just use the rivets then proceed as normal. Having a properly sized rivet gun to handle the larger steel rivets will be a necessity, though you *might* be able to get away with an all steel fixed head riveter, mine was the rotating head and the head on that is cast metal.

And if you're doing the rivnuts then don't bother worrying about a properly sized riveter and just redrill the bracket like I talked about, set the rivnuts, and use aluminum rivets for the air box adapter. It easily could be done in 3-4 hours if doing the rivnuts, and probably the 2-3 hours it says if you're just riveting everything.

This does not look like a lot of fun!!! Lets see the finished product now! This might come off my list! lol!
 

JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,436
Location
Way up north, UT
As a side note, I don't really need an antenna since I still pick up all the stations I listen to no problem. It probably really helps that I'm in the Salt Lake valley and the transmitters are all on the mountains next to us, it's not hard to get good signal around here. I'll still eventually put one on, but I can wait a good while to do it.
 

JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,436
Location
Way up north, UT
Finally fixed the connection for the rear defroster, so that's one more thing off my list. The one side of the connector was all melted, so I pulled the terminals out of the housing and cut the ends off and crimped on some insulated spade terminals instead. Now hopefully I won't have any more issues with it. I had to undo the tape that was wrapped around the defroster and 3rd brake light wires so that I could get enough slack in the defroster wires to make sure the terminals didn't get pulled apart since they are not locking terminals. In the process of getting that part figured out I ended up breaking a couple of the clips that hold the upper inside trim in place on the rear door. I've always had terrible luck with these kinds, though I think this is the first time I've actually broken the metal bit.

81SvQn2.jpg


I5rRwWm.jpg
 
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