37"s

[kflips]

Kflips if you want to make me Jealous? Call Ridge Demon get some 4.56 gears front and rear, get the Rancho 4" lift and the Daystar 1" body lift, crank the torsion bars slightly, add the 37's. Then you would have the best H3T on the planet. And if you break a tie rod or a cv shaft once in a while big f ing deal it is only a part, and it can be fixed.

Not trying to make you jealous oh great one -- sounds like 37's would put too much stress on the front diff ... always open for debate but the feedback has been great. But you got me thinking about those lifts at RC -- ground clearance & greater tire size for better performance would be a key reason, or just great looks.

 

[06 H3]

If you already dont think I am a nut well after this post most of you think will think I am a nutcase. I truly believe you can run 38's with a 1in body lift...How? Tube fenders!! The H3 fenders are huge!!! If you got tube fenders made and used them you can have so much room in the wheelwell. Of course I, nor anyone else, is crazy enough to do it but it would be sick. Low center of gravity and massive clearance. One PITA is that the H3 front diff is too small like 4speed has said. It would be nice if we could get a bolt on kit with a bigger diff. The only way to do that though is custom work and probably the rancho kit. You cant fit much more then the stock diff in there due to clearance but the rancho would clear that space up.

I havent done measurements though because I dont have tube fenders nor a rancho lift for diff clearance but I think its an accurate estimate.

 

[HUMMER INVESTMENTS]

If you already dont think I am a nut well after this post most of you think will think I am a nutcase. I truly believe you can run 38's with a 1in body lift...How? Tube fenders!! The H3 fenders are huge!!! If you got tube fenders made and used them you can have so much room in the wheelwell. Of course I, nor anyone else, is crazy enough to do it but it would be sick. Low center of gravity and massive clearance. One PITA is that the H3 front diff is too small like 4speed has said. It would be nice if we could get a bolt on kit with a bigger diff. The only way to do that though is custom work and probably the rancho kit. You cant fit much more then the stock diff in there due to clearance but the rancho would clear that space up.

I havent done measurements though because I dont have tube fenders nor a rancho lift for diff clearance but I think its an accurate estimate.

:whaa::whaa::whaa::whaa::whaa::whaa::whaa::whaa::whaa::whaa::whaa::whaa::whaa::whaa::whaa::whaa::whaa::whaa::whaa::whaa:

Wow! Wonder if someone will ever try it!

 

[06 H3]

:whaa::whaa::whaa::whaa::whaa::whaa::whaa::whaa::whaa::whaa::whaa::whaa::whaa::whaa::whaa::whaa::whaa::whaa::whaa::whaa:

Wow! Wonder if someone will ever try it!

I would try it only if I can regear and get a 9in Centersection with some FAT STRONG halfshafts lol.

 

[MUTAINT]

Alpha + 4.56 gears out of an I5 =

I think MU will be doing something like this in the near future with Mr.Blue?

YEP! Taking the front and rear diffs from Mr "T" and swapping them into Mr. Blue (Alpha), then Daystar body lift, then 37s (If I can find some for the stock 16s). As far as breakage of the 4:56s. We will see how they hold up under the 4:1, V8, front locker and 37s. In my mind the Daystar rig is still going strong and as another poster said a "light foot" on the skinny pedal can make it last. I'm not a point and shoot wheeler and believe that the addition of the 4:56s and front locker will allow me to wheel with even less of the skinny pedal.:thumbs:

Aftermarket wheels with a lesser backspacing would cause some pretty good rub. Personally I would stick with the stock wheels and keep them "tucked" in there.

Agree 100%! I have looked at as many videos and pix of H3/H3Ts running 37s and wheeling and they will "stuff and tuck" inside the wheel well.:thumbs: Any difference in the backspacing could be a disaster to your fender extensions and wheel wells!:no:

kflips; you already have an Alpha and some of the other "mods" I plan on doing so a Daystar body lift and 37s is not that far of a stretch for ya. Please, PM me if you wouldn't mind answering a question or 2 I got for ya.

 

[4speedfunk]

BTW...if anybody wants to tackle the tube fenders, put me on the list. I had plans to do so but, got some other mods on the list ahead em.

 

[06 H3]

BTW...if anybody wants to tackle the tube fenders, put me on the list. I had plans to do so but, got some other mods on the list ahead em.

Its on my list. I am just swamped with school and then I have work on top of that other mods to do and I am building something for a friends rig. If someone else does it before me feel free. If not I hope to start sometime within 8-12 months. If I was to do it I want to reinforce them so you can use them like a slider on tighter trails. I know I spoke to 4speed about this before but if anyone has any ideas or input let me know. we can all help each other out

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

 

[Flash]

I was looking at this a couple months ago. To me, the vehicle is a system. To do "x", then "a", "b" and "c" are required. My resources were Tim @ Expedition Hardware and Carl "MTUH3". I feel that the H3 was engineered for 33's. 35's can be run in stock form but once a torsion adjust is added, then shocks and bump stops are typically replaced. This is the x = a + b scenerio. For 37's the system elements affected are: 1 - engine power. 2 - Effective gear ratio. 3 - wheels (including size and offset if using a Rancho lift). 4 - Shocks. 5 - Brakes. 6 - etc etc etc.

The 4" rancho lift requires a minimum 17" wheel with 4.5 backspacing. Some have considered using H2 wheels with an adapter (I personally like this idea as it keeps it "Hummer").

My conclusion was there are 3 roads to take. 1 - optimize a daily driver with 33's and enough UCP and suspension upgrades (Shocks) to make it utilitarian on the trail. 2 - replicate a MOAB H3 that GM never put into production but all the engineering is complete and with 35's is/was a very impressive truck. Or 3 - do a custom build like Bebe or Recon. I've run with a guy who put 40's or 42's on an H2. Custom fabbed tons of stuff. Was truly wicked. But seems like his truck is broke a lot. I opted for the trail ready daily driver.

I think the secrets are found in analyzing the Moab truck or even the Rod Hall racing trucks. What kinds of "improvements" did they do and why. What size tires did they end up with? What "system" support was done to complete the package? It reads to me that 37"s really require a full custom approach.

 

[08SolarFlareH3]

The 4" rancho lift requires a minimum 17" wheel with 4.5 backspacing. Some have considered using H2 wheels with an adapter (I personally like this idea as it keeps it "Hummer").

Actually you can get away with a 16" wheel but it really depends on the wheel (from the Rancho site "the maximum wheel backspacing is 5 inches on 20”+ wheels and 4.5 inches on 16”, 17” and 18” wheels").

There have been several people who have had 16's but its easier to find a 17" that will fit. Reaper is running a 16" wheels but I think he still needed a spacer because of the calliper, not because of the knuckle (Reaper feel free to correct me if I am wrong). There was an H3 for sale in Oregon with a Rancho lift and 35" boggers on 16" wheels a couple months ago. There was also an H3 in Czech that was running the factory wheels and 2" spacers with the Rancho lift kit. The Stage Four (one famous for the fender flares out of Japan) had 16" wheels on there H3.

 

[06 H3]

I love these conversations! Getting few points from multiple people around here is great.

I was looking at this a couple months ago. To me, the vehicle is a system. To do "x", then "a", "b" and "c" are required. My resources were Tim @ Expedition Hardware and Carl "MTUH3". I feel that the H3 was engineered for 33's. 35's can be run in stock form but once a torsion adjust is added, then shocks and bump stops are typically replaced. This is the x = a + b scenerio. For 37's the system elements affected are: 1 - engine power. 2 - Effective gear ratio. 3 - wheels (including size and offset if using a Rancho lift). 4 - Shocks. 5 - Brakes. 6 - etc etc etc.

The 4" rancho lift requires a minimum 17" wheel with 4.5 backspacing. Some have considered using H2 wheels with an adapter (I personally like this idea as it keeps it "Hummer").

You make a good point. Each and every mod you do takes another adjustment. Stock form will always be the most reliable form. I have never thought of using H2 Rims that is a good idea.

My conclusion was there are 3 roads to take. 1 - optimize a daily driver with 33's and enough UCP and suspension upgrades (Shocks) to make it utilitarian on the trail. 2 - replicate a MOAB H3 that GM never put into production but all the engineering is complete and with 35's is/was a very impressive truck. Or 3 - do a custom build like Bebe or Recon. I've run with a guy who put 40's or 42's on an H2. Custom fabbed tons of stuff. Was truly wicked. But seems like his truck is broke a lot. I opted for the trail ready daily driver.

Option 1) It is what most people do and it will get you through 90% of the stuff you throw at it and if you know how to wheel well then you will be even better off.

Option 2) Is also a pretty reliable form by replicating the what engineers did and still be a reliable rig. I believe this set up can still be a good DD and a great rig offroad.

Option 3) This is where it gets fun for me but reliability is a concern. I believe if it isnt done right which ALOT of people do when going all out custom it can become a quick mess. Its always a mystery when you hop in your rig on what will work and what wont. I havent seen many H3's go completely custom but alot of toyotas jeeps trucks etc. I need my rig to be reliable. I met a guy yesterday in a parking lot. He has the BIGGEST BADDEST JK I have EVER seen in person. I knew it had to come from Off Road Evolution. Sure enough I check this thing out and it was from ORE. I waited around his rig just to talk to him, it was so insane it was a privledge to talk to this guy. I was kinda worried waiting for him seeing if he would be an offroad snob or a down to earth guy. He was down to earth. He is known as "Trailbud." He has a full ORE line up. Dynatrac 60 axles Front and Rear, Atlas 4 speed Transfer case, arb lockers, 5.38 gears, custom driveshafts, ORE custom tuned king off road shocks, beadlocks, 40x15.5's ORE cantilever system in the rear, bumpers, winch, lights etc. I could go on for another paragraph on what was done. ORE's quality was insane!!!! He was a super nice guy and showed me the pictures of the rigs build like his on fordyce. The creek had their 40's underwater...I of course go on for a good 20 min. asking questions. Is it reliable?? Does it ride like a bag of ****?? etc. He claims it is very reliable. I believe it. I asked if he is running the hemi. He wasnt...why? It wasnt reliable enough for his liking. I am a DIY kind of person. I want to do all the work myself. In a situation like this where a complete overhaul is in order I would swallow my pride and send it off to ORE. I can still do my own stuff like bumpers, skids, tube fenders etc. but when it comes to this I want it done right and reliable. Being miles away from help or civilization I dont want a vehicle to crap out on me and I believe it wont if these guys do the work. I know recon had his issues with them and I am not standing up for them but he said his issue was work not getting done and not buttoning up the rest of the stuff before he took it. I do remember him saying his quality was amazing though, luckily for me I will be local and not traveling like recon and I would stay on their asses and make sure it gets done. I asked how did it ride? He claims amazing. I am not sure if this is bias though. He said it is stable though. I believe it, the stock JK track width is 69.1 inches His track width is 88. It is very stable but I cant comment on ride quality because I never went for a ride. He doesnt trailer his rig and uses it as a DD and said it rides like a cadillac. Who knows. This **** is expensive though, the results on the other hand are amazing too. Back to reality I view myself at option 1. Which is fine. I can do most of the stuff I want. I hope to eventually reach option 2 soon. Option 2 allows an all around good driving rig still and without spending as much as option 3. I am young and am still unmarried. my H3 is still a DD. I want the H3 to be comfortable for a girl and so far it has...lol By the time college is done and I am married and have more money I hope to step up to option 3. I know marriage and money dont go hand and hand though....lol I spoke to Mel the owner of ORE yesterday on facebook. I told him the quality on trailbuds rig was insane and he thanked me and I told him in the future I want to go to him because 35's wont cut it running extreme trails. He has worked on a few H3s and can do the Solid axle conversion but I told him I would want an IFS rig and said they have built bulletproof IFS's before. So I will be contacting him in the future. Not for many years though and still an all around rig will try and be maintained with Ride quality and reliability in mind.

I think the secrets are found in analyzing the Moab truck or even the Rod Hall racing trucks. What kinds of "improvements" did they do and why. What size tires did they end up with? What "system" support was done to complete the package? It reads to me that 37"s really require a full custom approach.

Here is trailbuds rig.

 

[Flash]

Actually you can get away with a 16" wheel but it really depends on the wheel (from the Rancho site "the maximum wheel backspacing is 5 inches on 20”+ wheels and 4.5 inches on 16”, 17” and 18” wheels").

Reaper is running a 16" wheels but I think he still needed a spacer because of the calliper.

You are correct - I should have included spacers with a 16" wheel.

 

[eheart144]

I am not 100% sure, but I believe that 37"s can only be used in combination with either the Rancho or Tuff Country 4" lift, or a completely custom set-up like Recon or Bebe. As far as I know, both lifts recommend tire sizes of 35", but I believe 37"s have been run by some users of these lifts.

 

[4speedfunk]

An H3 with 35s is very capable...in fact I'm fairly content with mine in its current form. As long as I creep it...I'm confident that it would do okay for most trails I run. However, every once in awhile, creepin doesn't work! Sometimes you gotta use the foot...and thats when the durability issues appear. Given all the extra problems that big tires create...you really gotta do some math before commiting to major mods. A stock H3 with some 285 MTs will go damn near anyplace you want to go without all the big-tire and gearing issues. The speedo and shift points remain reasonably correct...your warranty (yeah right) is still valid...and you still have a semi-practical daily driver. You just gotta learn to break out the winch a bit earlier than your ego may like.

But, once you bolt on 37s...you enter the world where stock drivetrain just doesn't cut it. The bad part is...there is no middle-ground and aftermarket support. Its either a $1200 set of tires...or $6000+ custom suspension. With the H3 there's not much in between!

 

[06 H3]

An H3 with 35s is very capable...in fact I'm fairly content with mine in its current form. As long as I creep it...I'm confident that it would do okay for most trails I run. However, every once in awhile, creepin doesn't work! Sometimes you gotta use the foot...and thats when the durability issues appear. Given all the extra problems that big tires create...you really gotta do some math before commiting to major mods. A stock H3 with some 285 MTs will go damn near anyplace you want to go without all the big-tire and gearing issues. The speedo and shift points remain reasonably correct...your warranty (yeah right) is still valid...and you still have a semi-practical daily driver. You just gotta learn to break out the winch a bit earlier than your ego may like.

But, once you bolt on 37s...you enter the world where stock drivetrain just doesn't cut it. The bad part is...there is no middle-ground and aftermarket support. Its either a $1200 set of tires...or $6000+ custom suspension. With the H3 there's not much in between!

That is probably the reason with the few extreme builds we have had...no middle ground. I mean the guy with the JK started on 33's slowly built up and is now on 40's I also think some people hit the hobby harder then others. Some want to explore trails that any rig on any 35in tire will fail miserably. It just sucks we cant toy around in the middle range area. Also building a custom suspension on an H3 isnt necessarily a slap in the face to the H3's capabilities. To run some trails a custom rig is in order. That JK isnt a JK. The seats arent even stock...lol

 

[kflips]

YEP! Taking the front and rear diffs from Mr "T" and swapping them into Mr. Blue (Alpha), then Daystar body lift, then 37s (If I can find some for the stock 16s). As far as breakage of the 4:56s. We will see how they hold up under the 4:1, V8, front locker and 37s. In my mind the Daystar rig is still going strong and as another poster said a "light foot" on the skinny pedal can make it last. I'm not a point and shoot wheeler and believe that the addition of the 4:56s and front locker will allow me to wheel with even less of the skinny pedal.:thumbs:



Agree 100%! I have looked at as many videos and pix of H3/H3Ts running 37s and wheeling and they will "stuff and tuck" inside the wheel well.:thumbs: Any difference in the backspacing could be a disaster to your fender extensions and wheel wells!:no:

kflips; you already have an Alpha and some of the other "mods" I plan on doing so a Daystar body lift and 37s is not that far of a stretch for ya. Please, PM me if you wouldn't mind answering a question or 2 I got for ya.

OOOOHHH - an on line chat with a Mutaint - sounds pretty interesting.... OK

 

[Sierra H3]

How about just using the 1 inch Daystar body lift with 35's to reduce the required torsion bar crank and subsequent stress on the front end? Will that improve the reliability on 35s?

 

[bebe]

Please - before you make any decisions - do your homework. Here is a chart that you should study.

Gear ratio/Tire size chart

​

Better Gas Mileage

Near Factory Ratio

More Power

Gear Ratio

T i r e D i a m e t e r

3.31 3.42 3.55 3.73 3.91 4.11 4.27 4.56 4.88 5.13 5.29 5.38 5.71 6.17 7.17 27" 2677 2766 2872 3017 3163 3325 3454 3689 3947 4150 4279 4352 4619 4991 5800 28" 2582 2668 2769 2909 3050 3206 3331 3557 3806 4001 4126 4196 4454 4813 5593 29" 2493 2576 2674 2809 2945 3095 3216 3434 3675 3863 3984 4052 4300 4647 5400 30" 2410 2490 2584 2715 2846 2992 3109 3320 3553 3735 3851 3917 4157 4492 5220 31" 2332 2409 2501 2628 2755 2896 3008 3213 3838 3614 3727 3790 4023 4347 5051 32" 2259 2334 2423 2546 2696 2805 2914 3112 3331 3501 3610 3672 3897 4211 4894 33" 2191 2263 2349 2469 2588 2720 2826 3018 3230 3395 3501 3561 3779 4093 4745 34" 2126 2197 2280 2396 2512 2640 2743 2929 3135 3295 3398 3456 3668 3963 4606 35" 2065 2134 2215 2328 2440 2565 2664 2845 3045 3201 3301 3357 3563 3850 4474 36" 2008 2075 2154 2263 2372 2493 2590 2766 2961 3112 3209 3264 3464 3743 4350 37" 1954 2019 2095 2203 2308 2426 2520 2692 2881 3028 3123 3176 3370 3642 4243 38" 1902 1966 2040 2144 2247 2362 2454 2621 2805 2948 3040 3092 3282 3546 4121 39" 1854 1915 1988 2089 2190 2302 2391 2554 2733 2873 2962 3013 3198 3455 4015 40" 1807 1867 1938 2037 2135 2244 2331 2490 2664 2801 2888 2937 3118 3369 3915 41" 1763 1822 1891 1987 2083 2189 2275 2429 2599 2733 2818 2866 3042 3287 3819 42" 1721 1778 1846 1940 2033 2137 2220 2371 2538 2668 2751 2798 2969 3208 3728 43" 1681 1737 1803 1894 1986 2087 2169 2316 2479 2606 2687 2733 2900 3134 3642 44" 1643 1698 1762 1851 1941 2040 2119 2263 2422 2546 2626 2670 2834 3063 3559

This is only a piece of what you should consider before going with 37's and a 4:56 ratio. It would be a slug off the line but would net you some decent gas mileage (good luck getting on the freeway in front of a charging Semi) LOL.

Other things that need to be considered are trans gears and t-case ratio's to come to a final crawl ratio. You will need a custom program to get the tire size working with your vehicle speed sensor properly. There are issues with the VSS and a tire size that is 4-5" over OEM.

 

[JonBishop]

whats the stock gear ratio?
hahaha im sorry....... im not much of a gear head im trying haha

 

[bebe]

Base is a 32" tire with 4:56 ratio and adventure is a 33" tire with a 4:56 ratio - Alphas are 33" tire with a 4:10 ratio

 

[M22KLARS]

I thought Adventure T-case was 4:10...

 

[MUTAINT]

BeBe, thanks for the chart! It really helps to explain what I am trying to say below. :thumbs:

I have done a lot of "homework" on my plans for Mr. Blue. With the Alpha I have 4:10s stock, 4 to 1 t-case & 315s, so I am in between the Yellow and the Green now. By installing the 4:56s I will be back in the green with the 315s (very close to the 4:10s and 285s), then with the 37s or 36.5s I will be in Yellow and the Green again which is where I am now.

Since I am already in Yellow and the Green right now and Mr. Blue still gets up and goes with the V8 (city and highway). So by stepping up to the 4:56s and 37s I'm effectivley going to have just about the same final drive ratio I do with the 4:10s and 315s. I know that the front diff/gears/1/2 shafts may be an issue, but there has to be someone who will try it and see what the outcome will be. Spare shafts, tie rods (already carry) and a spare locked CI 4:56 front diff will be part of the plan also. Treating the 4:56s, RCVs, Bebe SOA rear and Hunners Bullet Proof tie rods are also being considered.

Heck, if BeBe didn't venture into unknow territory with the IFS D44 and SOA rear we never would have known if it would have held up either! Maybe I'm just a dreamer but with minds like Brodie, kflips and others thinking about the possibilities I am a firm believer in the "Alpha with 4:56s on 37s with a 1"body lift" coming to fruition and being a reliable daily driver and weekend worrior. We will see, I may have to go back to the 315s if things go boom! But I'll still have the 1" lift, 4:56s locked F&R and a V8!

 

[bebe]

I thought Adventure T-case was 4:10...

Only Alpha's came with the 4:10's

 

[MUTAINT]

I thought Adventure T-case was 4:10...

M22, I know you already know this but it's never bad to post up this kind of info for those that may not know.

the T-case ratio on all H3/H3Ts with the (BW-4494) Adventure(I5)/OffRoad(V8) was a 4.03 to 1 ratio

the T-case ratio on all other H3/H3Ts (BW-4493) have a 2.64 to 1 ratio

Front & Rear Differential Ratio for Alpha/Championship H3/H3Ts (All V8s) 4.10 to 1 ratio

Front & Rear Differential for all I5 H3/H3Ts 4.56 to 1 ratio

H3/H3T BW-4493 Transfer Case Ratios
Range Gear Ratio
4WD High 1.00
4WD High Lock 1.00
4WD Low Lock 2.64

H3/H3T BW-4494 with Adventure/OffRoad Package
Range Gear Ratio
4WD High 1.00
4WD High Lock 1.00
4WD Low Lock 4.03

4l60E transmission ratios for the H3/H3T
1st 3.06
2nd 1.62
3rd 1.00
4th 0.696

AR-5 5-speed manual transmission by Aisin (for the 06-10 H3/H3T RPO MA5):
1st 3.75
2nd 2.26
3rd 1.37
4th 1.00
5th 0.73
R 3.67

Disclaimer: These are all FACTORY/OEM #s. The way they came from GM. Your ratios may have been changed by the previous owner/owners.

 

[bebe]

Ha I was just coming back to post this - here is another..."more better" calculator to use if you have all this information!!!

Use the calculator on this site http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

 

[M22KLARS]

:emb: I knew they were 4:56... not sure why I posted that about the 4:10's... DUH!